Photography, writing with light
History
In the 19th century was first experimented with making a picture. It was also a very difficult and time consuming job. Around 1800 there were two practical principles of using essential for making a picture. The first principle was the effect of the 'camera obscura'. That is Italian for "dark room". The camera obscura was one, as the name suggests, dark room where a small hole through which light shone Sat. The image was inverted by the hole seemed projected on the back of the room, where the light ray radiation. If the hole was made the image disappeared, and precisely where the problem was that the picture had to be held. The second useful principle was fortunately known: some materials discolor by the sun.
In 1822, the first picture in the world by the Frenchman Joseph Niepce made. This job took him eight hours. The problem was him in the highlight. Partly this was the image that even after eight hours have blurred and dark. It was obviously very important that the camera that photographed and what was not allowed to move. But this time the photographer had no camera with all buttons and clever tricks for the best picture possible. The device that the photographer used that time consisted of a heavy wooden cabinet with glass in it. With such a photo album could be made. When the plates were on had to be placed in a new.
The Frenchman Louis Daguerre knew about ten years after the invention of Niepce a better picture. The picture was sharper and it took only half hour to develop him. Daguerre worked with copper plates that had a size of approximately 16 by 21 inches. But as Louis Daguerre Joseph Niepce had also many things to get a good picture and develop. In 1836, not long after the invention of Niepce, the Englishman William Fox Talbot took the paper-negative. The advantage was that multiple prints per image could be made. In 1888 the first roll of film camera invented by American George Eastman. His camera called the Kodak, a mark that still exists. After this invention, the cameras finally past the loose boards, and took a picture and develop increasingly shorter.
Types of cameras
There are different types of cameras, each with different functions. Here are the famous:
Rangefinder camera
These types of cameras are very small and compact. They do not have interchangeable lenses and cameras are especially suited for making vacation and family photos. There is however a downside to rangefinder cameras: the viewfinder and the lens does not give exactly the same picture. The viewfinder (the glass underneath which looks) and the lens are placed outside each other. The picture is made may therefore be different to see, and especially photographs near the subject photographed. For a good picture is so important to what it should be photographed in the middle of the image, so that everything would come to stand.
SLR
The SLR has a small mirror behind the lens surface, hence the name. This camera lenses can be changed so that many professional photos can be made.
Digital Camera
This is a new type of camera since the early 90s there. Compared to the other two species, the digital camera has many advantages. First there is a window in which the pictures can be viewed. Photos that 'mistake', for instance, the blur can be erased immediately. Secondly, the camera does not roll but a memory disc where the photos end up. First, the images recorded by a small piece of electronics that the CCD (Charged Device Coppeld) is called. The CCD consists of millions of cells that the image itself and then as an electronic pass code to the memory disc. These codes consist of all zeros and ones, as the data on the hard disk of a computer. The big advantage of a digital camera is that pictures on the computer can be put. From the computer, the images are sent via e-mail or they can be put on the Internet. But there is more: the photos can be updated on the computer. Or bumps can be colored backgrounds and / or otherwise modified so that the picture can meet your needs. Press Photographers also experience many benefits from the digital camera. From example, Australia could easily picture to a computer via the Netherlands for example are sent. It does because no dark room to pass out and the picture can be printed directly on paper.
Not all digital cameras are equally good. It depends mainly on the amount of pixels a camera has. The pixels are small dots which one because the image is built. Good cameras have a higher number of pixels less than good cameras. Cameras that are cheap usually around 1 million pixels. The more expensive types usually have about 3 million pixels. The quantity can be expressed in pixels resolution. The resolution is the extent to which the objects (eg pictures) are still distinct from each other. The higher the resolution, the larger the image can be made.
Digital photos can be stored in two ways: as a JPEG or TIFF file. The jpeg file causes the picture with very little memory space can be stored without the quality and size of the photo being interfered. This is called image compression. Images that are stored in this way can therefore quickly by e-mail. In a tiff file take pictures much memory space, but the quality is excellent and all details are clearly visible. The photographs in this way are stored uncompressed or compressed the opposite. The latter is the case with a jpeg file.
Types of lenses
There are not only different types of cameras, but also various types of lenses. They are divided into four types:
Standard Lens
This lens is all visible, as it normally is also observed. The picture here is not distorted.
Angle
This lens is the opposite of the standard lens. The image is made smaller and distorted. One advantage is that more fit on one picture.
Telephoto
The telephoto increases the subject from a distance. This lens is very suitable for sports or nature photography. A disadvantage is that the background can be a bit blurred. In addition to this it is difficult to photograph because the smallest vibration will move the image, because something very close to being achieved.
Zoom lens
This is a combination of the standard lens, wide angle and telephoto. This lens itself can be determined what needs to be established.
söndag 22 november 2009
Scrapbooking, how do you do that?
Scrapbooking, how do you do that?
Scrap Book. Maybe you've heard of. But what is it exactly, scrapbooking? It is simply your photos on an elegant pasting. But then so that the page is a feast for the eye. That may sound simple, but it is not.
Because how are you going to start a page? Always choose the photo s from which you want to use for your page. Just look closely at the photo s themselves. What colors do you see it come back? Look at the materials you want to use. Scrapbook Pages s are specially made cardboard called Card Stock. These are sheets of 30 by 30 cm and are available in many colors and patterns.
So choose colors that occur in your photo. For example, holiday snaps where the sea in it, take your blue, and photographs which can occur in many natural green take. Clearly, these are simple examples, but if it works the easiest. If you've decided which colors you take for your card stock, then move on to look decorative material. This material can really be anything. Ribbon, buttons, shells, you can not think of as crazy or you can for your page. So make a selection from your chosen decoration materials. Just be sure that it fits in your chosen subject.
Once you've selected your materials all go watch the pictures you want on your page s. This is called a layout making. When you first start it is useful to some existing lay-outs of the Internet to collect or from the countless books on this subject have already appeared. Then you get some practice before you get your own layouts to start. You want your page to make course beating.
Once you have a specific layout for it's time to look at some scrapbook techniques. You can eg mats. Mats is simply affix your photo on cardboard and then cutting to ensure that there is an edge of the colored paper remains visible. Your list as it were in your photo. You can choose to do 1 color, or you can say I mat several times so you get all different frames, this gives us a very beautiful and finished effect. If you decide it s all your pictures to can be a beautiful whole, that the colors nicely together aansliut.
Of course there are many more scrapbook techniques, and terms such as eye-lets, a kind of staples that you can hit the paper, Brads, which are then small or large split pins that you kanmaken things down and so much more . If you want to start out Look before you leap, because it is so fun to do, you son of everybody wants to volplakkenBedenk album that most items are available on the Internet, often expensive, so make sure your prices Shops remain compare.
Scrap Book. Maybe you've heard of. But what is it exactly, scrapbooking? It is simply your photos on an elegant pasting. But then so that the page is a feast for the eye. That may sound simple, but it is not.
Because how are you going to start a page? Always choose the photo s from which you want to use for your page. Just look closely at the photo s themselves. What colors do you see it come back? Look at the materials you want to use. Scrapbook Pages s are specially made cardboard called Card Stock. These are sheets of 30 by 30 cm and are available in many colors and patterns.
So choose colors that occur in your photo. For example, holiday snaps where the sea in it, take your blue, and photographs which can occur in many natural green take. Clearly, these are simple examples, but if it works the easiest. If you've decided which colors you take for your card stock, then move on to look decorative material. This material can really be anything. Ribbon, buttons, shells, you can not think of as crazy or you can for your page. So make a selection from your chosen decoration materials. Just be sure that it fits in your chosen subject.
Once you've selected your materials all go watch the pictures you want on your page s. This is called a layout making. When you first start it is useful to some existing lay-outs of the Internet to collect or from the countless books on this subject have already appeared. Then you get some practice before you get your own layouts to start. You want your page to make course beating.
Once you have a specific layout for it's time to look at some scrapbook techniques. You can eg mats. Mats is simply affix your photo on cardboard and then cutting to ensure that there is an edge of the colored paper remains visible. Your list as it were in your photo. You can choose to do 1 color, or you can say I mat several times so you get all different frames, this gives us a very beautiful and finished effect. If you decide it s all your pictures to can be a beautiful whole, that the colors nicely together aansliut.
Of course there are many more scrapbook techniques, and terms such as eye-lets, a kind of staples that you can hit the paper, Brads, which are then small or large split pins that you kanmaken things down and so much more . If you want to start out Look before you leap, because it is so fun to do, you son of everybody wants to volplakkenBedenk album that most items are available on the Internet, often expensive, so make sure your prices Shops remain compare.
Pixels, what can you do with it?
Pixels, what can you do with it?
E-mail, web or screen
If you want to share a photo via e-mail or present on a website or slideshow, you must think in pixels. The best quality for a picture on a screen to display as one pixel of the picture coincides with a pixel of the monitor (100% or 1 in 1). If you have a digital camera with 8 million pixels, it makes these pictures of 3264 by 2448 pixels. See you this 1 on 1 (browser) on a monitor with a screen resolution of 1280 by 1024 pixels (SXGA), it remains 85% of the picture out of view. Which shows that we have a camera with 1.4 million pixels are enough to e-mail, website or display images to present.
Photos from digital cameras with more megapixels should therefore be reduced by physically removing pixels. This can in most photo editing programs like Adobe Photoshop Elements and Paint Shop Pro. In the dialog where you can do this, you can specify different variables. Make sure the unit is in pixels and specify the values of the reduced size of between 800 to 600 in 1280 and 1024 (4:3 compact camera). With a 3:2 aspect ratio (SLR camera) is 780 to 520 to 1260 at 840. Of the (printing) resolution is nothing to pull.
Print
How many pixels you need for a good print depends on the desired size of the print and the number of pixels per inch (2.45 cm) needed for a visually sharp print. These pixels or dots per inch (dpi) print resolution called, and this is important. The print resolution is less (fewer pixels / ink droplets per inch needed), as the size increases (see table).
Print Size (cm / inch) Viewing Distance (cm) (dpi) resolution Pixel Format Megapixels
15x10 / 6x4 30 300 1800 x1200 2.16
30x20 / 12x8 60 225 2700 x1800 4.86
60x40 / 24x16 120 140 3360 x2240 7.53
120x80 / 48x32 240 80 38x2560 9.83
This has to do with the viewing distance to the picture. A print of 15 by 10 cm to 30 cm and it looks requires 300 pixels per inch. At a magnification of 30 by 20 cm viewing distance is 60 cm. Your eye sees less detail and with 225dpi the picture still looks sharp. In a print of 75 by 50 cm, the viewer at least 1.5 meters away, and can decrease the resolution to 110 dpi.
In the same dialog in which you reduce the photos for use on a screen, projector or LCD TV you can also specify print size and resolution.
* Example 1: If the 8 megapixel camera (3264 by 2448 pixels) and you want to print at 200 dpi, then the width of the print 3264 divided by 200, being 16.32 inches (41.45 x 2.45 = cm)
* Example 2: Would you make a print of 30 by 20 cm (approx. 12x8 inches) at 225 dpi, then you have about 2700 pixels (= 12 x 225) in the required width and 1800 (= 8 x 225) in the height. This is a picture of almost 5 Megapixel.
E-mail, web or screen
If you want to share a photo via e-mail or present on a website or slideshow, you must think in pixels. The best quality for a picture on a screen to display as one pixel of the picture coincides with a pixel of the monitor (100% or 1 in 1). If you have a digital camera with 8 million pixels, it makes these pictures of 3264 by 2448 pixels. See you this 1 on 1 (browser) on a monitor with a screen resolution of 1280 by 1024 pixels (SXGA), it remains 85% of the picture out of view. Which shows that we have a camera with 1.4 million pixels are enough to e-mail, website or display images to present.
Photos from digital cameras with more megapixels should therefore be reduced by physically removing pixels. This can in most photo editing programs like Adobe Photoshop Elements and Paint Shop Pro. In the dialog where you can do this, you can specify different variables. Make sure the unit is in pixels and specify the values of the reduced size of between 800 to 600 in 1280 and 1024 (4:3 compact camera). With a 3:2 aspect ratio (SLR camera) is 780 to 520 to 1260 at 840. Of the (printing) resolution is nothing to pull.
How many pixels you need for a good print depends on the desired size of the print and the number of pixels per inch (2.45 cm) needed for a visually sharp print. These pixels or dots per inch (dpi) print resolution called, and this is important. The print resolution is less (fewer pixels / ink droplets per inch needed), as the size increases (see table).
Print Size (cm / inch) Viewing Distance (cm) (dpi) resolution Pixel Format Megapixels
15x10 / 6x4 30 300 1800 x1200 2.16
30x20 / 12x8 60 225 2700 x1800 4.86
60x40 / 24x16 120 140 3360 x2240 7.53
120x80 / 48x32 240 80 38x2560 9.83
This has to do with the viewing distance to the picture. A print of 15 by 10 cm to 30 cm and it looks requires 300 pixels per inch. At a magnification of 30 by 20 cm viewing distance is 60 cm. Your eye sees less detail and with 225dpi the picture still looks sharp. In a print of 75 by 50 cm, the viewer at least 1.5 meters away, and can decrease the resolution to 110 dpi.
In the same dialog in which you reduce the photos for use on a screen, projector or LCD TV you can also specify print size and resolution.
* Example 1: If the 8 megapixel camera (3264 by 2448 pixels) and you want to print at 200 dpi, then the width of the print 3264 divided by 200, being 16.32 inches (41.45 x 2.45 = cm)
* Example 2: Would you make a print of 30 by 20 cm (approx. 12x8 inches) at 225 dpi, then you have about 2700 pixels (= 12 x 225) in the required width and 1800 (= 8 x 225) in the height. This is a picture of almost 5 Megapixel.
10 photography tips
10 photography tips
Anyone can make better pictures with a few handy tips. It does not matter whether you have an expensive or inexpensive camera. It is even better to start with a cheap camera, because you are not distracted by all the extra features. I assume that people with a digital camera photography. But these tips are useful if you want to shoot with a cell phone.
Tip 1: Keep your camera steady. Then the image is much sharper. The move creates jitter. This is used as an effect. Sometimes pictures with jitter is just very beautiful. If you want to use this effect you take very many photos and hope that a few well succeeded. It is important that you take the picture when the camera moves, for example from left to right or front to back.
Tip 2: Take multiple photos. If you have a digital camera can often hundreds of photos on an SD-card set. Also make use of. It can always be just that someone with his eyes closed or half closed on the photo, that you sometimes see on your little screen.
Tip 3: Create different shots. If you shoot a person, you can "in a nutshell 'shooting. That is, in its entirety ie including feet. But you can also make close-ups. It is always useful to different framing to make the best framework for later kuinnen to choose.
Tip 4: Do the right horizon. If you shoot someone you sometimes forget you or the camera eropte watch the camera straight. Care in any case the horizon is. This makes the picture like a much more pleasant to watch. Pictures with a deliberately crooked horizon can also be great if you overdo it with a diagonal horizon.
Tip 5: Say something funny when you shoot someone. A picture is much nicer if someone laughs spontaneously.
Tip 6: Take lots of photos, and good practice in quick shots with straight horizon, still held camera and the other tips in mind. This prevents disappointments. Nothing is more annoying than someone asking you for a picture and then when that is taken and you must admit that the picture has failed.
Tip 7: Learn the capabilities of your camera very well. There are so many possibilities with a digital camera that affect the picture quality. Make sure you under any circumstance that the camera in the correct position, and that you can quickly adjust.
Tip 8: Dare less successful photos to throw away. Let not your SD card with enough pictures failed because the task is discarded later anyway. Furthermore you continuously look critically at your own pictures. The high bar for yourself to make the result better and better.
Tip 9: Set the day off when you flash a picture of a landscape. This fact has little use and only takes batteries or battery power. If you close range in the daytime (up to 3 meter), then it makes sense to use it unless a flash "fill flash". The fill flash, the subject a little more light making it separate from the background, the picture is beautiful in its entirety.
Tip 10: Use a photo editing program to edit your photos 'cropping'. That is all cut away what is not nice get up.
Anyone can make better pictures with a few handy tips. It does not matter whether you have an expensive or inexpensive camera. It is even better to start with a cheap camera, because you are not distracted by all the extra features. I assume that people with a digital camera photography. But these tips are useful if you want to shoot with a cell phone.
Tip 1: Keep your camera steady. Then the image is much sharper. The move creates jitter. This is used as an effect. Sometimes pictures with jitter is just very beautiful. If you want to use this effect you take very many photos and hope that a few well succeeded. It is important that you take the picture when the camera moves, for example from left to right or front to back.
Tip 2: Take multiple photos. If you have a digital camera can often hundreds of photos on an SD-card set. Also make use of. It can always be just that someone with his eyes closed or half closed on the photo, that you sometimes see on your little screen.
Tip 3: Create different shots. If you shoot a person, you can "in a nutshell 'shooting. That is, in its entirety ie including feet. But you can also make close-ups. It is always useful to different framing to make the best framework for later kuinnen to choose.
Tip 4: Do the right horizon. If you shoot someone you sometimes forget you or the camera eropte watch the camera straight. Care in any case the horizon is. This makes the picture like a much more pleasant to watch. Pictures with a deliberately crooked horizon can also be great if you overdo it with a diagonal horizon.
Tip 5: Say something funny when you shoot someone. A picture is much nicer if someone laughs spontaneously.
Tip 6: Take lots of photos, and good practice in quick shots with straight horizon, still held camera and the other tips in mind. This prevents disappointments. Nothing is more annoying than someone asking you for a picture and then when that is taken and you must admit that the picture has failed.
Tip 7: Learn the capabilities of your camera very well. There are so many possibilities with a digital camera that affect the picture quality. Make sure you under any circumstance that the camera in the correct position, and that you can quickly adjust.
Tip 8: Dare less successful photos to throw away. Let not your SD card with enough pictures failed because the task is discarded later anyway. Furthermore you continuously look critically at your own pictures. The high bar for yourself to make the result better and better.
Tip 9: Set the day off when you flash a picture of a landscape. This fact has little use and only takes batteries or battery power. If you close range in the daytime (up to 3 meter), then it makes sense to use it unless a flash "fill flash". The fill flash, the subject a little more light making it separate from the background, the picture is beautiful in its entirety.
Tip 10: Use a photo editing program to edit your photos 'cropping'. That is all cut away what is not nice get up.
torsdag 19 november 2009
Working with strobes: Strobist!
Working with strobes: Strobist!
Throughout the world there are photographers who like to play with light and light effects. Many a photographer carries a whole rack of lights / spotlights and strobes with them, for the ultimate picture. Some disadvantages were also quick: the weight of a complete system flash (strobes, soft boxes, tripods, power supplies) was just heavy. Until a few are thought to external flash (the so-called flash report) to exploit this. And see there: soon the cry "strobist" a fact. Strobist is a corruption of the English word "strobe" an independent report which called flash. Strobist is the person who assumes this report bekwaamt in flash photography.
What will it take?
Ofcourse a camera in your possession, otherwise so difficult to photograph;)
A simple kit for strobist-done 1 may already be compiled flash report:
* A tripod;
* A swivel (this is a turning-point where the flash and the umbrella can be mounted);
* A flash umbrella (white / translucent or silver / gold for the bounce (or 'bounced' called);
* A channel for the camera (this is on the hot-shoe, the assembly point where the flash is normal);
* A receiver (with external flash is connected);
Depending on the flash, which you can often buy used, the costs for other materials so around 130-150 Euros (estimated / budgeted). The big advantage is that such an enormous set of light weight, and thus very portable for indoor and outdoor locations!
The flash report
The report may flash of the same brand as the camera you own, but it is not required. You can even very old flash photography from the analog era exploit! By using a radio transmitter / receiver can thus differ. So you find a used copy, already look after the flash has that GN. The guide number indicates how 'powerful' is the flash, at 1 meter distance to an object to expose the largest aperture number (and thus smaller aperture hole), with a 50 mm lens on a 35mm camera.
Some manufacturers specify the GN at ISO 100, ISO 200 others, that a factor 1.4 difference in guide number visible. So be good at!
Furthermore, the flash just works, and so light. Ideal is a manually adjustable flash with a range of 1 / 128 to 1 / 1 (full power).
The tripod
The tripod should be solid, especially to unstable / shaky! There are many stands in the market, and what is important (in addition to the placement firm), is the height of the tripod. Is an average height of 180cm/200cm beautiful and very useful. Is the height of the tripod is too low, then you limit yourself in the application of exposure to the model.
The swivel
The swivel is the pivot of the tripod with the flash / umbrella combination. Track the flash umbrella tilt up / down and also rotate (left / right) to your model / subject correctly explain.
Note that you have to purchase a good solid connection to swivel the flash can make. You must not think that your flash off the swivel moves, and falls on the hard surface ....
The flash-umbrella
The umbrella-flash ensures the spread of the light: you can view together (converge) using a silver / gold flash umbrella, or spreading (divergence) by a white umbrella (also called "shoot-through is called). The advantage of a white umbrella is a nice diffuse light, which is very nice skin of a person doing light. Skin bumps are lightly masked this.
The silver / gold umbrella for gecontentreerde (and harder) to throw light on the model. With the gold variant get a warmer skin tones glow thrown over him. The silver umbrella is good for the highlight of a hard topic.
The transmitter / receiver
The transmitter and receiver are important for communication between the camera and the flash. Because the flash of the camera, the signal must be transmitted properly. First there are models available that entry between 40-60 EUR (estimated) over the counter. Professional transmitter / receivers, such as the Pocket Wizard and Skyport Elinchrom, for amounts that are many times higher road. Contrast is greater reliability in flash-communication, and scope.
The slide channel of the hotshoe on the camera, involving the setting on the transmitter and the receiver must be aligned properly in advance. Also check your manual on the flash-sync speed. Because you top this flash sync can work, can take a picture when the shutter curtain covers one part of your photo (black and so late).
Average is the flash sync around 1 / 200 a 1 / 250 seconds. So until that time, the sensor / film in its entirety at once exposed.
And so on ...
Now for a flash you a starter-set created, you can get started with strobist photography. Would you expand, because you have more flash, you will for each flash in any case require an additional receiver. Moreover, as you become more and more skilled in this branch of photography, you can still expand with accessories like gels (for the flash from one color to shine (very nice for the background)), blew (to flash to bundle up a light beam), honeycomb (for parallel light rays toward the subject, without scattering) and so on!
Creativity is ultimately the only obstacle to the photographer!
Throughout the world there are photographers who like to play with light and light effects. Many a photographer carries a whole rack of lights / spotlights and strobes with them, for the ultimate picture. Some disadvantages were also quick: the weight of a complete system flash (strobes, soft boxes, tripods, power supplies) was just heavy. Until a few are thought to external flash (the so-called flash report) to exploit this. And see there: soon the cry "strobist" a fact. Strobist is a corruption of the English word "strobe" an independent report which called flash. Strobist is the person who assumes this report bekwaamt in flash photography.
What will it take?
Ofcourse a camera in your possession, otherwise so difficult to photograph;)
A simple kit for strobist-done 1 may already be compiled flash report:
* A tripod;
* A swivel (this is a turning-point where the flash and the umbrella can be mounted);
* A flash umbrella (white / translucent or silver / gold for the bounce (or 'bounced' called);
* A channel for the camera (this is on the hot-shoe, the assembly point where the flash is normal);
* A receiver (with external flash is connected);
Depending on the flash, which you can often buy used, the costs for other materials so around 130-150 Euros (estimated / budgeted). The big advantage is that such an enormous set of light weight, and thus very portable for indoor and outdoor locations!
The flash report
The report may flash of the same brand as the camera you own, but it is not required. You can even very old flash photography from the analog era exploit! By using a radio transmitter / receiver can thus differ. So you find a used copy, already look after the flash has that GN. The guide number indicates how 'powerful' is the flash, at 1 meter distance to an object to expose the largest aperture number (and thus smaller aperture hole), with a 50 mm lens on a 35mm camera.
Some manufacturers specify the GN at ISO 100, ISO 200 others, that a factor 1.4 difference in guide number visible. So be good at!
Furthermore, the flash just works, and so light. Ideal is a manually adjustable flash with a range of 1 / 128 to 1 / 1 (full power).
The tripod
The tripod should be solid, especially to unstable / shaky! There are many stands in the market, and what is important (in addition to the placement firm), is the height of the tripod. Is an average height of 180cm/200cm beautiful and very useful. Is the height of the tripod is too low, then you limit yourself in the application of exposure to the model.
The swivel
The swivel is the pivot of the tripod with the flash / umbrella combination. Track the flash umbrella tilt up / down and also rotate (left / right) to your model / subject correctly explain.
Note that you have to purchase a good solid connection to swivel the flash can make. You must not think that your flash off the swivel moves, and falls on the hard surface ....
The flash-umbrella
The umbrella-flash ensures the spread of the light: you can view together (converge) using a silver / gold flash umbrella, or spreading (divergence) by a white umbrella (also called "shoot-through is called). The advantage of a white umbrella is a nice diffuse light, which is very nice skin of a person doing light. Skin bumps are lightly masked this.
The silver / gold umbrella for gecontentreerde (and harder) to throw light on the model. With the gold variant get a warmer skin tones glow thrown over him. The silver umbrella is good for the highlight of a hard topic.
The transmitter / receiver
The transmitter and receiver are important for communication between the camera and the flash. Because the flash of the camera, the signal must be transmitted properly. First there are models available that entry between 40-60 EUR (estimated) over the counter. Professional transmitter / receivers, such as the Pocket Wizard and Skyport Elinchrom, for amounts that are many times higher road. Contrast is greater reliability in flash-communication, and scope.
The slide channel of the hotshoe on the camera, involving the setting on the transmitter and the receiver must be aligned properly in advance. Also check your manual on the flash-sync speed. Because you top this flash sync can work, can take a picture when the shutter curtain covers one part of your photo (black and so late).
Average is the flash sync around 1 / 200 a 1 / 250 seconds. So until that time, the sensor / film in its entirety at once exposed.
And so on ...
Now for a flash you a starter-set created, you can get started with strobist photography. Would you expand, because you have more flash, you will for each flash in any case require an additional receiver. Moreover, as you become more and more skilled in this branch of photography, you can still expand with accessories like gels (for the flash from one color to shine (very nice for the background)), blew (to flash to bundle up a light beam), honeycomb (for parallel light rays toward the subject, without scattering) and so on!
Creativity is ultimately the only obstacle to the photographer!
Review: Olympus E-450
Review: Olympus E-450
Olympus makes it even lighter
The successor to the E-420 (previously discussed by us) is equipped with an LCD screen 2.7 inches, an enhanced Live View mode, wireless flash control, Shadow Adjustment Technology and a Supersonic Wave Filter for dust counter but strangely enough has no internal image stabilizer. Wonder if the E-450 - which is priced soft - it also does well in practice!
Draft
Like the E-400, E-410 and E-420 E-450 sees a bit of retro. This means that no clear handle exists, what also causes the camera to remain smaller. Despite its light weight (just over 425 grams with the battery in the body) feels the unit to a sufficiently robust. The latter is made possible by the use of fiber-reinforced plastic, the material for most Olympus cameras within this range is used.
To the E-450 comfortable to hold, you need the weight and the lens - just as photographers did that decades ago - to support the left, while the right to use the buttons to operate and to keep everything in balance. Nevertheless, this camera more suitable for people with smaller hands than for giants.
The buttons are also very easily accessible and are all to be found in smart site selection, while the optical viewfinder is fairly clear and we have little in the picture could detect abnormalities. Who wants manual focus and sufficient time to take a picture, but that does better in Live View.
As was the case with the E-420 is the status LCD screen vertically along the right side. The rear LCD screen is 2.7 inches wide and there is no separate monochrome LCD screen, you can during the "record' mode just push the INFO button to display the status to call. Through the OK button you can in a similar way, even all the important settings from the display to match, a great way to ensure that the E-450 very user remains. Unfortunately, some common values (such as focus mode, white balance and ISO sensitivity) is not directly adjusted via the four directional buttons (which only the left one is adjustable), as you can to include the E-620.
Now we are a fully mobile cameras LCD screen to be discussed, we lack that feature. However, Olympus has clearly thought well, because the screen is viewed through a very wide angle views are, which is useful for, among other concert photography through between the public must remain. If you use manual focus and Live View, you can make a green rectangle appear in the middle of the display. Controlled by the four directional buttons and can be enlarged by clicking "OK" to push. Handy! Of course you can on the LCD will also display a histogram, a grid or information on the call settings. Who calls the Super Control Panel can continue to use a semi-transparent "overlay".
Obviously, this is again a "FourThirds' camera, meaning you get more focus and depth smaller sensors. The lenses can thus remain quite small and light, as is clear from the standard 14-42 mm zoom lens that belonged to our unit. Normally all this theoretically yield more noise (especially at higher sensitivities), but in practice, that usually turn out okay. But we discovered that the detail sharpness from f/16 really began to decrease, as can be expected. What we now expect from Olympus is even the possibility of both a Compact Flash and xD-Picture card, all you need to record a still image of the two cards to choose. Simultaneous recording is not an option yet, but copy from one card to another can of course.
Taking pictures
When the optical viewfinder and Live View not used, the E-450 provides for a reasonably fast autofocus, although so only through three focus points. A bit rudimentary, so, not enough for most professional photographers, but enough for most users. But in January as usual you choose between different institutions, which are directly available through a wheel first: fully automatic, P, A, S, M ... The E-450 is clearly designed for amateur photographers who like to have more options than usual, because there are fewer than 18 scene settings and 3 'creative' functions available. The latter are: pop, soft focus and pinhole. If you are used to complete the E-620 to use, know very well that the stocks of grainy black and white, pastel colors and light colors are missing, but it is nice to pop in for example directly to work. The Four Thirds system has no way to soft focus lenses, so we especially welcome the addition of that option.
The lack of more creative tools is partially offset by the fact that you have several filters to choose from. Whoever takes snaps in black and white, so can choose among red and orange (for a 'hot' sky), green (for more contrast with leaves), etc.. We recommend it to first to try this in Live View, which is also ideal for adjustments in the hue, such as sepia, ice blue or violet. Anyone who now claims that Live View is a significant addition, is either very stubborn or of ill will, because it really is very handy at the screen to see exactly how a picture will look. That way, you are much faster to choose the correct settings.
Image
While we initially went into the fog a few times when we had to use flash, it is recorded that the new imaging system (TruepicIII +) is indeed a (slight) improvement over its predecessor. While we take pictures under an ISO value of 800, not moved too much and not too much zoomed in, we were always sharp images. Unfortunately showed the lack of stabilization in the body is sometimes felt, or so we were slightly blurry pictures. Usually, however, we had little trouble, so we are quite pleased with the performance of the E-450. The E-620 seems a better choice, but is more expensive, while the price-quality ratio of the E-450 really is very good.
Even in the "Natural' mode we got bright colors and also led the Shadow Adjustment Technology ensure that we were little affected by high contrasts. We recommend it to SAT only to be in situations where there is strong light and high-contrast, but in such cases the technology well. Not surprising, because in this field Olympus has already built a good reputation.
Moreover you can even noise filter set to 'Low', 'Standard' or 'High'. Very useful, because in an environment with natural light is a little grain in the picture quite charming. As usual we were at ISO values above 800 are significantly more noise, but as long as you do not artificially inflate the images, everything falls perfectly into. Those who like night shooting, the "Bulb' mode switching for exposure times of 30 minutes to get to. The shutter speed is adjustable up to 60 seconds.
After a while we were working, the flash appeared to be in order. Users can choose between 'Auto', 'Manual', 'Fill' and 'Slow Synchronization ", as you usually" Red Eye Reduction "can turn. The red eyes that we often saw in pictures that we took were almost always almost completely eliminated when liked that last option. All this can also wirelessly, we probably should not mention.
Assessment
If we take account of its light weight and the fairly extensive options, we must conclude that the E-450 a great value for money. In this price range there are little devices that better. It is true that the absence of (mainly) stabilization and half LCD sometimes a thorn in the eye. Moreover, you no video recording with the E-450 and that is something even a mobile phone of today is 50 euros. Anyone who has more money, so most opt for the E-620, while wealthy photographers may drool on the E-30 (discussed in our next article). Amateurs are not too deep into the pockets to attack, but will be very satisfied with the E-450, the purchase of an ordinary digital camera is almost insane.
Olympus makes it even lighter
The successor to the E-420 (previously discussed by us) is equipped with an LCD screen 2.7 inches, an enhanced Live View mode, wireless flash control, Shadow Adjustment Technology and a Supersonic Wave Filter for dust counter but strangely enough has no internal image stabilizer. Wonder if the E-450 - which is priced soft - it also does well in practice!
Draft
Like the E-400, E-410 and E-420 E-450 sees a bit of retro. This means that no clear handle exists, what also causes the camera to remain smaller. Despite its light weight (just over 425 grams with the battery in the body) feels the unit to a sufficiently robust. The latter is made possible by the use of fiber-reinforced plastic, the material for most Olympus cameras within this range is used.
To the E-450 comfortable to hold, you need the weight and the lens - just as photographers did that decades ago - to support the left, while the right to use the buttons to operate and to keep everything in balance. Nevertheless, this camera more suitable for people with smaller hands than for giants.
The buttons are also very easily accessible and are all to be found in smart site selection, while the optical viewfinder is fairly clear and we have little in the picture could detect abnormalities. Who wants manual focus and sufficient time to take a picture, but that does better in Live View.
As was the case with the E-420 is the status LCD screen vertically along the right side. The rear LCD screen is 2.7 inches wide and there is no separate monochrome LCD screen, you can during the "record' mode just push the INFO button to display the status to call. Through the OK button you can in a similar way, even all the important settings from the display to match, a great way to ensure that the E-450 very user remains. Unfortunately, some common values (such as focus mode, white balance and ISO sensitivity) is not directly adjusted via the four directional buttons (which only the left one is adjustable), as you can to include the E-620.
Now we are a fully mobile cameras LCD screen to be discussed, we lack that feature. However, Olympus has clearly thought well, because the screen is viewed through a very wide angle views are, which is useful for, among other concert photography through between the public must remain. If you use manual focus and Live View, you can make a green rectangle appear in the middle of the display. Controlled by the four directional buttons and can be enlarged by clicking "OK" to push. Handy! Of course you can on the LCD will also display a histogram, a grid or information on the call settings. Who calls the Super Control Panel can continue to use a semi-transparent "overlay".
Obviously, this is again a "FourThirds' camera, meaning you get more focus and depth smaller sensors. The lenses can thus remain quite small and light, as is clear from the standard 14-42 mm zoom lens that belonged to our unit. Normally all this theoretically yield more noise (especially at higher sensitivities), but in practice, that usually turn out okay. But we discovered that the detail sharpness from f/16 really began to decrease, as can be expected. What we now expect from Olympus is even the possibility of both a Compact Flash and xD-Picture card, all you need to record a still image of the two cards to choose. Simultaneous recording is not an option yet, but copy from one card to another can of course.
Taking pictures
When the optical viewfinder and Live View not used, the E-450 provides for a reasonably fast autofocus, although so only through three focus points. A bit rudimentary, so, not enough for most professional photographers, but enough for most users. But in January as usual you choose between different institutions, which are directly available through a wheel first: fully automatic, P, A, S, M ... The E-450 is clearly designed for amateur photographers who like to have more options than usual, because there are fewer than 18 scene settings and 3 'creative' functions available. The latter are: pop, soft focus and pinhole. If you are used to complete the E-620 to use, know very well that the stocks of grainy black and white, pastel colors and light colors are missing, but it is nice to pop in for example directly to work. The Four Thirds system has no way to soft focus lenses, so we especially welcome the addition of that option.
The lack of more creative tools is partially offset by the fact that you have several filters to choose from. Whoever takes snaps in black and white, so can choose among red and orange (for a 'hot' sky), green (for more contrast with leaves), etc.. We recommend it to first to try this in Live View, which is also ideal for adjustments in the hue, such as sepia, ice blue or violet. Anyone who now claims that Live View is a significant addition, is either very stubborn or of ill will, because it really is very handy at the screen to see exactly how a picture will look. That way, you are much faster to choose the correct settings.
Image
While we initially went into the fog a few times when we had to use flash, it is recorded that the new imaging system (TruepicIII +) is indeed a (slight) improvement over its predecessor. While we take pictures under an ISO value of 800, not moved too much and not too much zoomed in, we were always sharp images. Unfortunately showed the lack of stabilization in the body is sometimes felt, or so we were slightly blurry pictures. Usually, however, we had little trouble, so we are quite pleased with the performance of the E-450. The E-620 seems a better choice, but is more expensive, while the price-quality ratio of the E-450 really is very good.
Even in the "Natural' mode we got bright colors and also led the Shadow Adjustment Technology ensure that we were little affected by high contrasts. We recommend it to SAT only to be in situations where there is strong light and high-contrast, but in such cases the technology well. Not surprising, because in this field Olympus has already built a good reputation.
Moreover you can even noise filter set to 'Low', 'Standard' or 'High'. Very useful, because in an environment with natural light is a little grain in the picture quite charming. As usual we were at ISO values above 800 are significantly more noise, but as long as you do not artificially inflate the images, everything falls perfectly into. Those who like night shooting, the "Bulb' mode switching for exposure times of 30 minutes to get to. The shutter speed is adjustable up to 60 seconds.
After a while we were working, the flash appeared to be in order. Users can choose between 'Auto', 'Manual', 'Fill' and 'Slow Synchronization ", as you usually" Red Eye Reduction "can turn. The red eyes that we often saw in pictures that we took were almost always almost completely eliminated when liked that last option. All this can also wirelessly, we probably should not mention.
Assessment
If we take account of its light weight and the fairly extensive options, we must conclude that the E-450 a great value for money. In this price range there are little devices that better. It is true that the absence of (mainly) stabilization and half LCD sometimes a thorn in the eye. Moreover, you no video recording with the E-450 and that is something even a mobile phone of today is 50 euros. Anyone who has more money, so most opt for the E-620, while wealthy photographers may drool on the E-30 (discussed in our next article). Amateurs are not too deep into the pockets to attack, but will be very satisfied with the E-450, the purchase of an ordinary digital camera is almost insane.
HDR photography, a sensation
HDR photography, a sensation
Exposure
By highlighting a picture is about the way in contrast to control both the dark and light areas are fully subscribed. In the normal analog or digital photography, it is almost impossible to picture in a different light quantities well into view. Everyone knows the disappointing results when you put a picture of a situation that is both inside (with relatively low light) and outside (with relatively high light) plays. Either the part is slightly overexposed, or the dark part is neglected. The camera is simply not in a position equally wide range to include light as our eyes can. Another example is the backlight image, the dark side with flashlight should be clarified, and our eyes both shadow and brightly lit background in detail to observe good.
HDR
Stands for High Dynamic Range, just in Dutch: High Dynamic Range. With this technique it is possible to do nice detailed pictures of subjects by different amounts of light are illuminated. A technique which provide so much inferior to the human eye.
How does it work
For this technique you need a digital SLR. You set the camera to function mostly as bracketing is indicated. The camera shoots with this function at the same time more shots while on the image. Around 3 to 5 shots, but all with different shutter speeds and therefore different exposures. These different images, so that at the same time the same image created, then software to a merged picture. The results of the HDR technique is really wonderful to take. All details are, regardless of differences in exposure, now accurately see. It is even paying attention to the sometimes almost surreal beauty of the picture does not transcend reality.
What equipment is suitable
You need a digital SLR that features a body bracketing (AEB), which can make 3 or 5 shots. This setting is also called Bracket. Not every fabric also uses the name Bracketing for this function. Then you need a program, worth about € 100, -. A good program is widely used and the Photomatix HDR program.
Besides of course a good camera is also a good tripod is necessary. Using a remote control is highly recommended or else the self-timer (timer) of the camera.
Topics for HDR
Static topics are most suitable for this technique. The subject must minimize moving parts. Exceptions can sometimes be made for clouds and water. HDR used in eg the interior of a church can yield great results.
Exposure
By highlighting a picture is about the way in contrast to control both the dark and light areas are fully subscribed. In the normal analog or digital photography, it is almost impossible to picture in a different light quantities well into view. Everyone knows the disappointing results when you put a picture of a situation that is both inside (with relatively low light) and outside (with relatively high light) plays. Either the part is slightly overexposed, or the dark part is neglected. The camera is simply not in a position equally wide range to include light as our eyes can. Another example is the backlight image, the dark side with flashlight should be clarified, and our eyes both shadow and brightly lit background in detail to observe good.
HDR
Stands for High Dynamic Range, just in Dutch: High Dynamic Range. With this technique it is possible to do nice detailed pictures of subjects by different amounts of light are illuminated. A technique which provide so much inferior to the human eye.
How does it work
For this technique you need a digital SLR. You set the camera to function mostly as bracketing is indicated. The camera shoots with this function at the same time more shots while on the image. Around 3 to 5 shots, but all with different shutter speeds and therefore different exposures. These different images, so that at the same time the same image created, then software to a merged picture. The results of the HDR technique is really wonderful to take. All details are, regardless of differences in exposure, now accurately see. It is even paying attention to the sometimes almost surreal beauty of the picture does not transcend reality.
What equipment is suitable
You need a digital SLR that features a body bracketing (AEB), which can make 3 or 5 shots. This setting is also called Bracket. Not every fabric also uses the name Bracketing for this function. Then you need a program, worth about € 100, -. A good program is widely used and the Photomatix HDR program.
Besides of course a good camera is also a good tripod is necessary. Using a remote control is highly recommended or else the self-timer (timer) of the camera.
Topics for HDR
Static topics are most suitable for this technique. The subject must minimize moving parts. Exceptions can sometimes be made for clouds and water. HDR used in eg the interior of a church can yield great results.
Reuse your old camera lenses on your new camera
Reuse your old camera lenses on your new camera
M42/p-draad
The lenses with M42 or p-thread (thread Praktica / Pentax thread) fitting can be reused. M42 fittings / thread was formerly one of the most common fittings and exercises designed by the company, a German company who quickly lost his standing at the end of the second world war. This fitting was designed for different lenses on a camera to be mounted. Soon it was fitting acquired by other companies. It is not crazy if you have an m42 / p wire in your attic are.
The M42 is a thread and he is better known as the M42 × 1mm, which means he has a thread of 42mm and 1mm thread pitch. The M42 was first used on the Zeiss Contax S in 1949. This was an East German branch of Zeiss their cameras sold under the Pentacon name. This company was following a merger with other East German Praktica practiced photo manufacturers.
The M42 received his first fame in Japan when the company called Praktica al. Therefore, the M42 also known as the Praktica thread. Because the M42 does not own special elements had been adopted by many manufacturers. And received several names such as:
* Universal thread mount
* Universal screw mount
The M42 was also known in the United States by the photo manufacturer Pentax that used this fitting. This was the M42 known as the Pentax thread, despite the fact that Pentax was not fitting.
The M42 was first developed by Carl Zeiss Jena in 1938. Many manufacturers who used the m-42, were additional features for this type of lenses. Emerged as a stop-down pin. This pin sticks out as the lens and pressed the aperture can be placed at the desired setting. This caused a major step forward in focusing.
What lenses have a m42 mount?
There are many manufacturers who have worked with the M42 a few known manufacturers:
* Zenit (known for the fisheye: Zenitar 16mm f/2.8 Fisheye)
* Praktica
* Pentax
* Zeiss
You can view it, now get any M42 mount camera and described the site regularly renewed with new lenses with M42 threaded.
http://m42.artlimited.net/ *
Amenities
* A digital SLR (a camera which in any case not to fit M42 threads)
* Lenses with a fitting M42/pdraad
* A M42 Adapter
The M42 adapter is available through internet sales sites like Ebay and Amazon. If you do not have confidence in buying over the Internet you can always try to picture the special case in the neighborhood. In addition there are regular m42 adapter on marketplace right, then an appointment with the seller can make and you just pay cash. an M42 adapter is a ring between the camera and what is the M42. One can have a fitting that fits on the reflex and on the other hand, fits the M42 thread.
Installation
Put out
1. Put red marks of the adapter and the lens mount of the camera together
2. Turn the adapter clockwise until you hear it click
3. Now screw the M42 lens on your camera
Remove
1. To pick up the adapter is press the "disconnect" button and turn the adapter anticlockwise.
For and Disadvantages
Disadvantages
* You must manually focus
Benefits
* Many different lenses on the Internet to get a bargain price
* You can use your old lenses again on your new camera
* Although the old lenses, most lenses are an excellent quality
M42/p-draad
The lenses with M42 or p-thread (thread Praktica / Pentax thread) fitting can be reused. M42 fittings / thread was formerly one of the most common fittings and exercises designed by the company, a German company who quickly lost his standing at the end of the second world war. This fitting was designed for different lenses on a camera to be mounted. Soon it was fitting acquired by other companies. It is not crazy if you have an m42 / p wire in your attic are.
The M42 is a thread and he is better known as the M42 × 1mm, which means he has a thread of 42mm and 1mm thread pitch. The M42 was first used on the Zeiss Contax S in 1949. This was an East German branch of Zeiss their cameras sold under the Pentacon name. This company was following a merger with other East German Praktica practiced photo manufacturers.
The M42 received his first fame in Japan when the company called Praktica al. Therefore, the M42 also known as the Praktica thread. Because the M42 does not own special elements had been adopted by many manufacturers. And received several names such as:
* Universal thread mount
* Universal screw mount
The M42 was also known in the United States by the photo manufacturer Pentax that used this fitting. This was the M42 known as the Pentax thread, despite the fact that Pentax was not fitting.
The M42 was first developed by Carl Zeiss Jena in 1938. Many manufacturers who used the m-42, were additional features for this type of lenses. Emerged as a stop-down pin. This pin sticks out as the lens and pressed the aperture can be placed at the desired setting. This caused a major step forward in focusing.
What lenses have a m42 mount?
There are many manufacturers who have worked with the M42 a few known manufacturers:
* Zenit (known for the fisheye: Zenitar 16mm f/2.8 Fisheye)
* Praktica
* Pentax
* Zeiss
You can view it, now get any M42 mount camera and described the site regularly renewed with new lenses with M42 threaded.
http://m42.artlimited.net/ *
Amenities
* A digital SLR (a camera which in any case not to fit M42 threads)
* Lenses with a fitting M42/pdraad
* A M42 Adapter
The M42 adapter is available through internet sales sites like Ebay and Amazon. If you do not have confidence in buying over the Internet you can always try to picture the special case in the neighborhood. In addition there are regular m42 adapter on marketplace right, then an appointment with the seller can make and you just pay cash. an M42 adapter is a ring between the camera and what is the M42. One can have a fitting that fits on the reflex and on the other hand, fits the M42 thread.
Installation
Put out
1. Put red marks of the adapter and the lens mount of the camera together
2. Turn the adapter clockwise until you hear it click
3. Now screw the M42 lens on your camera
Remove
1. To pick up the adapter is press the "disconnect" button and turn the adapter anticlockwise.
For and Disadvantages
Disadvantages
* You must manually focus
Benefits
* Many different lenses on the Internet to get a bargain price
* You can use your old lenses again on your new camera
* Although the old lenses, most lenses are an excellent quality
Buy Digital Camera
Buy Digital Camera
A digital camera buyers
A digital camera is not something you buy as soon doing. It is important to first in the matter to deepen a digital camera just before you buy. See also what photographer you are. Will your digital camera or use the many digital camera just for holiday snaps to? What should the quality of the photos you'll create? Do you have a certain budget in mind?
When you buy a digital camera, there are some technical aspects which vary from digital cameras. These elements generally provide the price of the digital camera. Below are the different aspects mentioned.
Resolution / picture quality
Note the picture quality and resolution of the digital camera. The higher the resolution, the higher the quality of the picture will be. If your digital camera has a low resolution photo will not be nice if you enlarge the picture. In principle, 2 megapixel enough, though the digital cameras today a resolution of 5 megapixels or more.
Lens
Keep an eye or an optical zoom or digital zoom to. In an optical zoom lens has the responsibility to get closer to the image. With a digital zoom is a piece of the actual image is captured and zoomed in on software. Basically a digital zoom is the same as a piece cut from the picture and get closer by using a computer for photo editing (photo editor). An optical zoom is often better than a digital zoom.
Memory
If you have many pictures, make sure you have enough memory on the digital camera. How many photos fit on a certain amount of memory depends on the capacity of the digital camera. This differs including a digital camera. It is good to let this information.
Compatibility with your computer
Always buy a dogota e camera that is compatible with your computer. Which operating systems, the digital camera along? If your camera to your computer can connect you with including photos taken on your digital camera can store on your PC.
Model, size and weight
As a digital camera often you wear when you are traveling (eg on holiday) is very useful when the digital camera not too big and not too heavy. You want a digital camera and can easily carry the digital camera is easy to hold during the taking of pictures. It is advisable to look into the store or the camera easy to hold.
Battery
Digital cameras have relatively much energy to the battery. Look before you buy digital camera or rechargeable batteries.
A digital camera buyers
A digital camera is not something you buy as soon doing. It is important to first in the matter to deepen a digital camera just before you buy. See also what photographer you are. Will your digital camera or use the many digital camera just for holiday snaps to? What should the quality of the photos you'll create? Do you have a certain budget in mind?
When you buy a digital camera, there are some technical aspects which vary from digital cameras. These elements generally provide the price of the digital camera. Below are the different aspects mentioned.
Resolution / picture quality
Note the picture quality and resolution of the digital camera. The higher the resolution, the higher the quality of the picture will be. If your digital camera has a low resolution photo will not be nice if you enlarge the picture. In principle, 2 megapixel enough, though the digital cameras today a resolution of 5 megapixels or more.
Lens
Keep an eye or an optical zoom or digital zoom to. In an optical zoom lens has the responsibility to get closer to the image. With a digital zoom is a piece of the actual image is captured and zoomed in on software. Basically a digital zoom is the same as a piece cut from the picture and get closer by using a computer for photo editing (photo editor). An optical zoom is often better than a digital zoom.
Memory
If you have many pictures, make sure you have enough memory on the digital camera. How many photos fit on a certain amount of memory depends on the capacity of the digital camera. This differs including a digital camera. It is good to let this information.
Compatibility with your computer
Always buy a dogota e camera that is compatible with your computer. Which operating systems, the digital camera along? If your camera to your computer can connect you with including photos taken on your digital camera can store on your PC.
Model, size and weight
As a digital camera often you wear when you are traveling (eg on holiday) is very useful when the digital camera not too big and not too heavy. You want a digital camera and can easily carry the digital camera is easy to hold during the taking of pictures. It is advisable to look into the store or the camera easy to hold.
Battery
Digital cameras have relatively much energy to the battery. Look before you buy digital camera or rechargeable batteries.
Proud of your own professional photo book
Proud of your own professional photo book
Crafted
It is not difficult to imagine why so many companies that do want your book printed. The most subjective part you do yourself. Is arguing about taste and is thus held by them outside the door. Remains: the printing craft, and there is still enough to earn. Any company that can offer a program that you own home by using it they can market to.
Download
For you as a customer is not feasible for all programs to compare. You must download them first before you can discover what possibilities the software offers. And to really compare you would have to download several. This is indeed free, it takes a lot of memory. When you start using them is of course even worse, because a good book requires large photo files.
Coffee Table Book
The most obvious choice is to lead you through the experience of friends or acquaintances. If you start with an exploratory visit to various sites and let you choose to send the professionalism that they project. You can also preferably be determined by the kind of book you want and the time you want in stabbing, you want a simple program or just to many options to lay out areas of your roof to go? There are sites that simply focus on people that is happy until he snaps together in one handy book to have occasionally further memories. Others are more sophisticated and promote the true freak that his hobby photos to make a coffee table book. Or think of a successful gift for a 50-year-old, a wedding anniversary or require a liber amicorum, a friendship book, is based on personal submissions in the form of photographs, texts, clippings and drawings.
Startle
Everything is possible and it is great fun to do! Especially because your highly personal artwork is composed of own material. If you've been so few sweet days with digital cut and paste and your book is finally ready to send to be printed so you can be caught by surprise. The final sum payable appears imperceptibly risen considerably! But you've already done that work for nothing, so hop, send it!
Price Difference
What should you consider? If it is good to personalize the site already well out how the price is. What is the minimum number of pages that you begin to pay? Then you pay one euro extra per page or the price will go only by jumps of 40 pages at a time up? What is the difference between plain and glossy paper and you may also choose to mat gloss? What options are there to cover? A soft cover is the cheapest. If you want a solid cover can be that your design is printed directly on the cover or the cover comes in a paper, which yet again just a little cheaper. A site you about the price structure of your book in the dark until late in submitting it is better to ignore!
Bookstore
Sometimes it is possible to book through your site to offer for sale. The possibilities of digital gadgets is unprecedented and it is getting more beautiful. This allows you to digitally Blurb.com browse through the books, though they are up for grabs. By a purchaser to determine which cover you want your book, you can affect the price. The downside of all the companies that you book by mail should send the postage. Six euro postage for one book of 10 euros, that's an imbalance. And you want your book using Blurb for sale, count on extra administrative costs.
Enthusiasm
Books are particularly the printing and software companies invested a sandwich. And you can have a very nice time use. A book of his own hand says you do more, is a lot dearer, than any other book. It may cost some. It may still pay for the various book sites before you start to look good, so the post does not surprise the cost, but your wonderful book.
Crafted
It is not difficult to imagine why so many companies that do want your book printed. The most subjective part you do yourself. Is arguing about taste and is thus held by them outside the door. Remains: the printing craft, and there is still enough to earn. Any company that can offer a program that you own home by using it they can market to.
Download
For you as a customer is not feasible for all programs to compare. You must download them first before you can discover what possibilities the software offers. And to really compare you would have to download several. This is indeed free, it takes a lot of memory. When you start using them is of course even worse, because a good book requires large photo files.
Coffee Table Book
The most obvious choice is to lead you through the experience of friends or acquaintances. If you start with an exploratory visit to various sites and let you choose to send the professionalism that they project. You can also preferably be determined by the kind of book you want and the time you want in stabbing, you want a simple program or just to many options to lay out areas of your roof to go? There are sites that simply focus on people that is happy until he snaps together in one handy book to have occasionally further memories. Others are more sophisticated and promote the true freak that his hobby photos to make a coffee table book. Or think of a successful gift for a 50-year-old, a wedding anniversary or require a liber amicorum, a friendship book, is based on personal submissions in the form of photographs, texts, clippings and drawings.
Startle
Everything is possible and it is great fun to do! Especially because your highly personal artwork is composed of own material. If you've been so few sweet days with digital cut and paste and your book is finally ready to send to be printed so you can be caught by surprise. The final sum payable appears imperceptibly risen considerably! But you've already done that work for nothing, so hop, send it!
Price Difference
What should you consider? If it is good to personalize the site already well out how the price is. What is the minimum number of pages that you begin to pay? Then you pay one euro extra per page or the price will go only by jumps of 40 pages at a time up? What is the difference between plain and glossy paper and you may also choose to mat gloss? What options are there to cover? A soft cover is the cheapest. If you want a solid cover can be that your design is printed directly on the cover or the cover comes in a paper, which yet again just a little cheaper. A site you about the price structure of your book in the dark until late in submitting it is better to ignore!
Bookstore
Sometimes it is possible to book through your site to offer for sale. The possibilities of digital gadgets is unprecedented and it is getting more beautiful. This allows you to digitally Blurb.com browse through the books, though they are up for grabs. By a purchaser to determine which cover you want your book, you can affect the price. The downside of all the companies that you book by mail should send the postage. Six euro postage for one book of 10 euros, that's an imbalance. And you want your book using Blurb for sale, count on extra administrative costs.
Enthusiasm
Books are particularly the printing and software companies invested a sandwich. And you can have a very nice time use. A book of his own hand says you do more, is a lot dearer, than any other book. It may cost some. It may still pay for the various book sites before you start to look good, so the post does not surprise the cost, but your wonderful book.
onsdag 18 november 2009
Find the perfect wedding photographer
Find the perfect wedding photographer
Be early to
Once you've set a date and is working with major record things like location and church, it is necessary to look around for a photographer. If you married on a Friday in May or June, you must do to be quick because these days very popular. Think in advance whether the photographer you have all day to have a wedding or just want to make two of you. The more time you have, the more critical you in your quest.
What style
Every photographer has his own style. This may be classic or modern, romantic or humorous. You see this is the best example in reports back from the photographer. Keep in mind the albums themselves and the way the pictures are pasted. In addition, there are now digital wedding albums, which certainly can give a good result. For yourself you can take a few pictures from magazines that appeal to you. Perhaps the photographer you shoot that way.
The click of the photographer
It is very important that you feel good at the photographer. It does not need to be friends, but not someone with your hackles stand up. You have to laugh at the photographer and you feel at ease when it comes close. For photos, this is extremely important. You do not seem awkward or forced at the pictures, because you really irritated all day?
The budget
Before you go long with photographers a budget is important to have in your head. Keep in mind what you get for it. Consider not only how the report is comprehensive, but also many pictures of you back and see how it works with repeat orders. Some photographers are cheaper eg the reorder again very expensive. Some photographers are the pictures on a site which put you and a guest if desired login code, so you can order them from there after. The ideal is of course the own decision on the negatives or a DVD with all photos. This is unfortunately not common among wedding photographers.
Preparing for the wedding
When a photographer you have chosen, it is customary to just before the wedding to come together again. You take over the day and discussed locations for the report. If you have a videographer give this to the photographer. Thus, they agree.
Enjoy your wedding!
Enjoy the day by all the attention. Many people feel in the beginning of a story uncomfortable, but after a while they feel more at ease and found it quite like it. Try the instructions of the photographer to follow and enjoy! Obviously you can hardly wait for the end result.
Be early to
Once you've set a date and is working with major record things like location and church, it is necessary to look around for a photographer. If you married on a Friday in May or June, you must do to be quick because these days very popular. Think in advance whether the photographer you have all day to have a wedding or just want to make two of you. The more time you have, the more critical you in your quest.
What style
Every photographer has his own style. This may be classic or modern, romantic or humorous. You see this is the best example in reports back from the photographer. Keep in mind the albums themselves and the way the pictures are pasted. In addition, there are now digital wedding albums, which certainly can give a good result. For yourself you can take a few pictures from magazines that appeal to you. Perhaps the photographer you shoot that way.
The click of the photographer
It is very important that you feel good at the photographer. It does not need to be friends, but not someone with your hackles stand up. You have to laugh at the photographer and you feel at ease when it comes close. For photos, this is extremely important. You do not seem awkward or forced at the pictures, because you really irritated all day?
The budget
Before you go long with photographers a budget is important to have in your head. Keep in mind what you get for it. Consider not only how the report is comprehensive, but also many pictures of you back and see how it works with repeat orders. Some photographers are cheaper eg the reorder again very expensive. Some photographers are the pictures on a site which put you and a guest if desired login code, so you can order them from there after. The ideal is of course the own decision on the negatives or a DVD with all photos. This is unfortunately not common among wedding photographers.
Preparing for the wedding
When a photographer you have chosen, it is customary to just before the wedding to come together again. You take over the day and discussed locations for the report. If you have a videographer give this to the photographer. Thus, they agree.
Enjoy your wedding!
Enjoy the day by all the attention. Many people feel in the beginning of a story uncomfortable, but after a while they feel more at ease and found it quite like it. Try the instructions of the photographer to follow and enjoy! Obviously you can hardly wait for the end result.
Photographing dragonflies
Photographing dragonflies
Equipment
For dragonfly photography you have two basic elements. A good camera and good lenses. The SLR camera is best used with two interchangeable lenses: the essential macro and a telephoto lens for the larger dragonflies you can not shoot close. The SLR's are more institutions and you'll soon be shooting. A libel which is not forever remain in place down.
Weather
Only in sunny weather they come to light. Preferably wind again in connection with the shooting motionless.
Location
In the vicinity of water. That does not mean you always should look directly at the shore. On Waarneming.nl * you can see where some dragonflies are seen.
Hunting
Care, if possible, for a good background. This means that a free space behind the bubble and not a bush oid Ensure also the backdrop for so much depth as "dull" as possible.
Take the time
First make sure that the dragonfly in the picture is good and if necessary make dozens of photos. You can choose out the best home. At a blurring got nothing. Take away also always some one photo or a photo as the dragonfly is still not well. If the dragonfly fly home then you still see what it was libel.
Note the position of the Sun
The best exposure you get when the sun angle is behind you. The dragonfly is then well exposed (no backlight), but you just do not sit in your own shadow. Before you approach the bubble, it is wise, whether in the right line between libel and Sun to stand and then the dragonfly to benaderen.Let that your shadow does not fall back on the bubble, because then the dragonfly flies away.
Approach the dragonfly slowly
Are you closer to try successively lower levels than the dragonfly to be. This dragonfly is smaller for you.
Photograph the dragonfly from different directions and details. This makes it easier to identify the dragonfly. Make sure you perpendicular to the bubble state. This all parts scherp.Een small aperture (high number) increases the probability that all parts sharp zijn.Bedenk in mind that the background is also more visible. So here you have to choose yourself. And, hold the camera steady. Moving from macro photography, blur. Try at least to get the eyes sharp. Most people move because the eye automatically toe.Ditzelfde includes the photography of birds. Besides low ISO value gives less noise.
I myself am an opponent of a dragonfly to vangen.Dat is really not necessary.
Try to make a picture about the behavior of the dragonfly: mating, eating, eggs, or shooting off the dragonfly with its environment (high aperture number).
The main focus
* Calm, free background;
* Small aperture (high number), unless quiet background lacking;
* Vertical shooting, that is the key to the whole dragonfly hone.
Good exposure * (look at your screen after the first picture);
* ISO as low as possible.
Finally, two examples
Below two examples of the Darter. One with a small aperture (high number) and one with the largest aperture on my lens (Canon 100 mm macro).
In a small aperture you have more depth on the bubble, but you also see more of the background. Addition
you have a low shutter speed. A steady hand is needed.
With a full aperture (F2, 8) is the shutter speed, so less likely to exercise and you get a great dull background. Chances are however that you libel not equally sharp.
Success in shooting!
Equipment
For dragonfly photography you have two basic elements. A good camera and good lenses. The SLR camera is best used with two interchangeable lenses: the essential macro and a telephoto lens for the larger dragonflies you can not shoot close. The SLR's are more institutions and you'll soon be shooting. A libel which is not forever remain in place down.
Weather
Only in sunny weather they come to light. Preferably wind again in connection with the shooting motionless.
Location
In the vicinity of water. That does not mean you always should look directly at the shore. On Waarneming.nl * you can see where some dragonflies are seen.
Hunting
Care, if possible, for a good background. This means that a free space behind the bubble and not a bush oid Ensure also the backdrop for so much depth as "dull" as possible.
Take the time
First make sure that the dragonfly in the picture is good and if necessary make dozens of photos. You can choose out the best home. At a blurring got nothing. Take away also always some one photo or a photo as the dragonfly is still not well. If the dragonfly fly home then you still see what it was libel.
Note the position of the Sun
The best exposure you get when the sun angle is behind you. The dragonfly is then well exposed (no backlight), but you just do not sit in your own shadow. Before you approach the bubble, it is wise, whether in the right line between libel and Sun to stand and then the dragonfly to benaderen.Let that your shadow does not fall back on the bubble, because then the dragonfly flies away.
Approach the dragonfly slowly
Are you closer to try successively lower levels than the dragonfly to be. This dragonfly is smaller for you.
Photograph the dragonfly from different directions and details. This makes it easier to identify the dragonfly. Make sure you perpendicular to the bubble state. This all parts scherp.Een small aperture (high number) increases the probability that all parts sharp zijn.Bedenk in mind that the background is also more visible. So here you have to choose yourself. And, hold the camera steady. Moving from macro photography, blur. Try at least to get the eyes sharp. Most people move because the eye automatically toe.Ditzelfde includes the photography of birds. Besides low ISO value gives less noise.
I myself am an opponent of a dragonfly to vangen.Dat is really not necessary.
Try to make a picture about the behavior of the dragonfly: mating, eating, eggs, or shooting off the dragonfly with its environment (high aperture number).
The main focus
* Calm, free background;
* Small aperture (high number), unless quiet background lacking;
* Vertical shooting, that is the key to the whole dragonfly hone.
Good exposure * (look at your screen after the first picture);
* ISO as low as possible.
Finally, two examples
Below two examples of the Darter. One with a small aperture (high number) and one with the largest aperture on my lens (Canon 100 mm macro).
In a small aperture you have more depth on the bubble, but you also see more of the background. Addition
you have a low shutter speed. A steady hand is needed.
With a full aperture (F2, 8) is the shutter speed, so less likely to exercise and you get a great dull background. Chances are however that you libel not equally sharp.
Success in shooting!
Review: Olympus SP-590 UZ
Review: Olympus SP-590 UZ
Use the (zoom) force, Luke!
Normally we start our discussion with an overview of the latest, but when a camera on the market with a 26x zoom lens and a focal length range of 26 - 676mm, we made an exception. Why? Simple: the zoom lens lets itself as to the strength behind all competition, even while professional digital SLRs often have the same range. An example: press photographers who already have seen in action, which will no doubt already have noticed ultra long white lenses. Well, who usually have a range of about 400 - 500mm. It goes without saying that we also frown when a camera is sold on which no separate lenses can be mounted, but which an extendable, very powerful variant. First impressions are important and will continue to be so let's see whether it concerns a handsome ...
Sensual
Of the SP-570 UZ we found all that he handsome oogde. Well, the SP-590 UZ is perfect in its extension, with a body which, to the fashion trends resembles a digital SLR, yet is more compact and slimmer. The slender, compound, matte black body is accented with a silver ring around the lens, while the dividing lines are nice and close and deep, herds with rubber grip for a comfortable feel and a good resting place for the fingers will. The rear thumb rest on a perfectly good can be cut spot.
Despite the fact that the body is made mostly of plastic, everything feels pretty sturdy and well built with. Only the button to open folding flash seems a bit incongruous to fall. With the index finger to the camera and blows open a handle to operate the zoom. When the long lens is pushed out, the camera is obviously even more impressed. However, with his little 535 grams heavier than you might expect, especially the front again, which probably means that the lens itself weighs quite a lot comparatively.
Below you will find the hatch behind four AA batteries can hide, securely held in place by a plastic slot. First, it is nice that regular batteries can be used, we recommend only other fully charged NiMH batteries. With alkaline batteries because we were far from being able to achieve the specified maximum number of shots (about 340) to get, whereas with NimH much better managed, though we had them off a few features normally operate continuously and thus extra energy worry.
When the camera is moved quickly, she tends to ramble, but that sound appears to be no way affect the performance and hence is a drawback if you want to shoot wild animals for example. In cases where silence is important, enter with the SP-590 UZ best so long, fast movements.
Another drawback: the door on the right provides access only for xD cards. They are slightly slower and more expensive than the more popular SD cards, which most other Olympus equipment or for half slot available. There is a small internal memory of 22 MB, so you emergency to 3 photos in full resolution the camera can store. On the other side of the device are the DC In, USB / AV Out and HDMI connectors. Especially the latter is interesting because it allows you to set the camera to an HD-TV link. That the required cable is included in the box, we find not so bad.
The back of the camera is dominated by the large 2.7 inch monitor with electronic viewfinder above the wheel, one button to switch between the LCD screen and the viewer and an AEL button. Which has a relatively good resolution of 230 000 points and is very pleasant to use, partly because there is to choose between five levels of brightness. By the somewhat limited battery capacities, most photographers, however, often want to use the electronic viewfinder. However, we find that the LCD display remains very readable, except where direct sunlight falls. In addition, the coverage angle more than sufficient, something which is not unimportant when shooting. Moreover you can view different information on both screens, though the live histogram and the "Rule of Thirds' grid lines are not used simultaneously. The electronic viewfinder is naturally slightly darker, but has a fairly good resolution. Thanks to the automatic increase of the central zone when you focus manually, everything remains sharp enough for accurate focusing.
Right of the screen you will find the traditional four direction buttons, with an OK / FUNC button in the middle. The buttons here provide immediate access to the flash modes, timer, two macro modes and exposure compensation. As with Canon cameras, it is possible to use the OK / FUNC button one (L-shaped) to conjure submenu containing (6) most used options.
Modes
Through one of the rollers, photographers can select many options. When the camera is set to Auto, it will choose all possible institutions. The user should only zoom, focus and shoot. Because the camera obviously can not know exactly what you want to shoot, this option is often very interesting for laymen. Sometimes the SP-590 UZ example, automatically increase the ISO value, which always makes for less good pictures. Amateur Photographers actually choose the best one of 19 preset scene modes: portrait, land screed, sports, night scene, night + portrait, indoor, candle, sunset, fireworks, fireworks multi, multiple exposure, cuisine, documents, Smile Shot, Beach & Snow , bird watching, pre-capture movie, quick shutter and soft background shot. Clearly defined, as we like to have.
In the Auto Program option selects the camera's shutter speed and aperture size, but allows the user to freely values as white balance, sharpness, ISO, flash compensation, contrast, saturation, and focus more set.
Aperture Priority means that you choose the aperture size and the camera selects the appropriate shutter speed, Shutter Priority In the photographer selects the shutter speed and the camera for the correct aperture in Manual mode and provides both the aperture and shutter speed set manually (with available menu options and a "bulbsetting 'of up to 8 minutes at ISO 64).
Anyone who chooses Movie, movies can (in VGA or QVGA) and noise in low resolution (640x480 or 320x240) and 30/15 frames per second. This can partly optical zoom (not expected that the zoom lens will focus again). Long may the clips do not last, because there is a maximum size of 2GB for most memory cards, or 40 seconds at 30fps when xD standard card is used. The optical zoom and image stabilization can furthermore not be used if you record sound.
At the same wheel contains a slightly unnecessary "Playback' option (strange, because there is already a Playback button on the back of the SP-590 UZ) and the convenient, brand new" beauty' setting back. The latter option allows the photographer to the Beauty Fix-3 playback effects (Clear Skin, Eye and Dramatic Eye Sparkle) to apply, each separately or combined. This is faster than you 'beauty' setting selects all while shooting. Which automatically detects faces in an image and makes their skin softer and more flattering. That there are approximately 10 seconds needed, all you get for one-and-after-picture.
Snapshots taken
Especially compact machines such as the SP-590 UZ nevertheless one really have a good image stabilization is needed to prevent the photos are ruined by movement. The SP-590 UZ has Dual Image Stabilization "and this term refers to the fact that both a mechanical and a digital system is present. This is not as great as it sounds, since the digital image stabilization simply increases the ISO sensitivity, so you no longer need to use shutter speeds. Now we know now that all have higher ISO values to ensure grainier pictures, so we are particularly interested in the mechanical system. This works great if that was the case in previous models, the sensor in the opposite direction of movement to tilt, which immediately creates a soft sound when you're photographing. We found that this system works very well as usual and continue to do better in the camera world, especially within this price range. Unfortunately, even this technology is not able to completely eliminate movement when you zoom in very, very sorry of course if you use such a powerful telephoto lens.
Focusing can in many ways: Spot AF is what you use for focusing on "center-point (a central point where you choose to focus on, focus, and then the camera which is about finding the right composition), is iESP slightly less accurate because it also the area around the central focal point takes into consideration, Area lets you choose your own location using the four buttons and the OK / FUNC button and Face Detect speaks for itself. Fulltime AF and AF Predict are more useful when moving objects or living things to shoot and have little time to focus properly. In Manual Focus mode the camera then displays a horizontal scale, while the center of the image is magnified. The lens is then focused through the left and right hand gently, while the focus lays with the OK / FUNC button.
The speed of focusing is very good: it took us only a half seconds to turn the camera and a focal point to prove and approximately 2.25 seconds before we could shoot. Between pictures we had just about every 3.70 seconds award, if successful the SP-590 UZ in at 1.1 to 1.3 shots per second as you pull the quick option. After six full-resolution photos to be joined it to stop and then set the buffer empty. Faster even succeed, but you need the number of megapixels drastically limit from 12 to weak 3 for 10 frames per second, for example. That is less than the best standard in today's mobile home.
Sometimes we encountered some difficulty in focusing, for example in dark rooms or when you zoom in on objects with very low contrast, no vertical lines, long distance, etc..
What is surprising is that the zoom will e speed: as fast or even faster than the competition, which zooms from 20x to 24x in that area can boast a little less.
The Shadow Adjustment Technology to the SP-590 UZ had its own button. Oddly enough it may only be used when the focus option on Face Detection and Auto or Scene State. That is a little weird, since this option ensures that the shadows are largely removed without the other colors to make less clear, which is especially useful if you shoot landscapes and other locations. A miss. Moreover you should be careful when you use this feature, because that could result in a bit of noise in the areas where the ISO-values increase in dark areas. Yet this is a very nice option, but as already noted there may be little enjoyed.
The built flash but we are very happy, because that is very good and quite fast: almost 4 seconds for a partial flash light and not too weak 6.5 seconds for a full discharge when zoomed in somewhere and dark. The scope of the flash is quite impressive for this type of device: 9 meter at ISO 800!
Image quality
As the picture quality is concerned, we are relatively short: who is excellent as long as you do not use high ISO values. Until an ISO value of 64 or 100 is chosen, there is not peachy keen. From ISO 200 but you can already see some quality, though you have already had a good watch. ISO 400 shows more noise and less detail and then it goes straight downhill. ISO values of 800 and 1600 are feasible, but you definitely feel called to not even try to shoot at ISO 3200 or - God help - 6400.
However, those restrictions in mind, can be very beautiful pictures made with the SP-590 UZ, with bright colors and many details (even in congested areas). There is also little color aberration, unless you limit the regions capacity is of the telephoto lens. In the dark we obtained excellent images.
Most impressive are the macro picture: the SP-590 focuses on easily to 1 inches of an object and then delivers excellent results with, too! Fantastic, especially for those who often deals with small animals or objects?
Conclusion
In its price range is the SP-590 UZ did not disappoint. The lens shows strong indeed an asset and thus a selling point to include some and to replace expensive, large lenses that you otherwise in a separate carrying case should take. In the dark, the camera performs well, but if the ISO-values rise above 200, the images are much grainier. Focusing is smooth and fast and the time to zoom is almost negligible when you take into account the power of the lens. In contrast, a few strange decisions, such as the limited usefulness of Shadow Adjustment Technology and the absence of the option to shoot in RAW. This will probably give up demanding photographers. Who is happy with anything less, does this SP-590 UZ a good thing for his own pleasure and purse.
Use the (zoom) force, Luke!
Normally we start our discussion with an overview of the latest, but when a camera on the market with a 26x zoom lens and a focal length range of 26 - 676mm, we made an exception. Why? Simple: the zoom lens lets itself as to the strength behind all competition, even while professional digital SLRs often have the same range. An example: press photographers who already have seen in action, which will no doubt already have noticed ultra long white lenses. Well, who usually have a range of about 400 - 500mm. It goes without saying that we also frown when a camera is sold on which no separate lenses can be mounted, but which an extendable, very powerful variant. First impressions are important and will continue to be so let's see whether it concerns a handsome ...
Sensual
Of the SP-570 UZ we found all that he handsome oogde. Well, the SP-590 UZ is perfect in its extension, with a body which, to the fashion trends resembles a digital SLR, yet is more compact and slimmer. The slender, compound, matte black body is accented with a silver ring around the lens, while the dividing lines are nice and close and deep, herds with rubber grip for a comfortable feel and a good resting place for the fingers will. The rear thumb rest on a perfectly good can be cut spot.
Despite the fact that the body is made mostly of plastic, everything feels pretty sturdy and well built with. Only the button to open folding flash seems a bit incongruous to fall. With the index finger to the camera and blows open a handle to operate the zoom. When the long lens is pushed out, the camera is obviously even more impressed. However, with his little 535 grams heavier than you might expect, especially the front again, which probably means that the lens itself weighs quite a lot comparatively.
Below you will find the hatch behind four AA batteries can hide, securely held in place by a plastic slot. First, it is nice that regular batteries can be used, we recommend only other fully charged NiMH batteries. With alkaline batteries because we were far from being able to achieve the specified maximum number of shots (about 340) to get, whereas with NimH much better managed, though we had them off a few features normally operate continuously and thus extra energy worry.
When the camera is moved quickly, she tends to ramble, but that sound appears to be no way affect the performance and hence is a drawback if you want to shoot wild animals for example. In cases where silence is important, enter with the SP-590 UZ best so long, fast movements.
Another drawback: the door on the right provides access only for xD cards. They are slightly slower and more expensive than the more popular SD cards, which most other Olympus equipment or for half slot available. There is a small internal memory of 22 MB, so you emergency to 3 photos in full resolution the camera can store. On the other side of the device are the DC In, USB / AV Out and HDMI connectors. Especially the latter is interesting because it allows you to set the camera to an HD-TV link. That the required cable is included in the box, we find not so bad.
The back of the camera is dominated by the large 2.7 inch monitor with electronic viewfinder above the wheel, one button to switch between the LCD screen and the viewer and an AEL button. Which has a relatively good resolution of 230 000 points and is very pleasant to use, partly because there is to choose between five levels of brightness. By the somewhat limited battery capacities, most photographers, however, often want to use the electronic viewfinder. However, we find that the LCD display remains very readable, except where direct sunlight falls. In addition, the coverage angle more than sufficient, something which is not unimportant when shooting. Moreover you can view different information on both screens, though the live histogram and the "Rule of Thirds' grid lines are not used simultaneously. The electronic viewfinder is naturally slightly darker, but has a fairly good resolution. Thanks to the automatic increase of the central zone when you focus manually, everything remains sharp enough for accurate focusing.
Right of the screen you will find the traditional four direction buttons, with an OK / FUNC button in the middle. The buttons here provide immediate access to the flash modes, timer, two macro modes and exposure compensation. As with Canon cameras, it is possible to use the OK / FUNC button one (L-shaped) to conjure submenu containing (6) most used options.
Modes
Through one of the rollers, photographers can select many options. When the camera is set to Auto, it will choose all possible institutions. The user should only zoom, focus and shoot. Because the camera obviously can not know exactly what you want to shoot, this option is often very interesting for laymen. Sometimes the SP-590 UZ example, automatically increase the ISO value, which always makes for less good pictures. Amateur Photographers actually choose the best one of 19 preset scene modes: portrait, land screed, sports, night scene, night + portrait, indoor, candle, sunset, fireworks, fireworks multi, multiple exposure, cuisine, documents, Smile Shot, Beach & Snow , bird watching, pre-capture movie, quick shutter and soft background shot. Clearly defined, as we like to have.
In the Auto Program option selects the camera's shutter speed and aperture size, but allows the user to freely values as white balance, sharpness, ISO, flash compensation, contrast, saturation, and focus more set.
Aperture Priority means that you choose the aperture size and the camera selects the appropriate shutter speed, Shutter Priority In the photographer selects the shutter speed and the camera for the correct aperture in Manual mode and provides both the aperture and shutter speed set manually (with available menu options and a "bulbsetting 'of up to 8 minutes at ISO 64).
Anyone who chooses Movie, movies can (in VGA or QVGA) and noise in low resolution (640x480 or 320x240) and 30/15 frames per second. This can partly optical zoom (not expected that the zoom lens will focus again). Long may the clips do not last, because there is a maximum size of 2GB for most memory cards, or 40 seconds at 30fps when xD standard card is used. The optical zoom and image stabilization can furthermore not be used if you record sound.
At the same wheel contains a slightly unnecessary "Playback' option (strange, because there is already a Playback button on the back of the SP-590 UZ) and the convenient, brand new" beauty' setting back. The latter option allows the photographer to the Beauty Fix-3 playback effects (Clear Skin, Eye and Dramatic Eye Sparkle) to apply, each separately or combined. This is faster than you 'beauty' setting selects all while shooting. Which automatically detects faces in an image and makes their skin softer and more flattering. That there are approximately 10 seconds needed, all you get for one-and-after-picture.
Snapshots taken
Especially compact machines such as the SP-590 UZ nevertheless one really have a good image stabilization is needed to prevent the photos are ruined by movement. The SP-590 UZ has Dual Image Stabilization "and this term refers to the fact that both a mechanical and a digital system is present. This is not as great as it sounds, since the digital image stabilization simply increases the ISO sensitivity, so you no longer need to use shutter speeds. Now we know now that all have higher ISO values to ensure grainier pictures, so we are particularly interested in the mechanical system. This works great if that was the case in previous models, the sensor in the opposite direction of movement to tilt, which immediately creates a soft sound when you're photographing. We found that this system works very well as usual and continue to do better in the camera world, especially within this price range. Unfortunately, even this technology is not able to completely eliminate movement when you zoom in very, very sorry of course if you use such a powerful telephoto lens.
Focusing can in many ways: Spot AF is what you use for focusing on "center-point (a central point where you choose to focus on, focus, and then the camera which is about finding the right composition), is iESP slightly less accurate because it also the area around the central focal point takes into consideration, Area lets you choose your own location using the four buttons and the OK / FUNC button and Face Detect speaks for itself. Fulltime AF and AF Predict are more useful when moving objects or living things to shoot and have little time to focus properly. In Manual Focus mode the camera then displays a horizontal scale, while the center of the image is magnified. The lens is then focused through the left and right hand gently, while the focus lays with the OK / FUNC button.
The speed of focusing is very good: it took us only a half seconds to turn the camera and a focal point to prove and approximately 2.25 seconds before we could shoot. Between pictures we had just about every 3.70 seconds award, if successful the SP-590 UZ in at 1.1 to 1.3 shots per second as you pull the quick option. After six full-resolution photos to be joined it to stop and then set the buffer empty. Faster even succeed, but you need the number of megapixels drastically limit from 12 to weak 3 for 10 frames per second, for example. That is less than the best standard in today's mobile home.
Sometimes we encountered some difficulty in focusing, for example in dark rooms or when you zoom in on objects with very low contrast, no vertical lines, long distance, etc..
What is surprising is that the zoom will e speed: as fast or even faster than the competition, which zooms from 20x to 24x in that area can boast a little less.
The Shadow Adjustment Technology to the SP-590 UZ had its own button. Oddly enough it may only be used when the focus option on Face Detection and Auto or Scene State. That is a little weird, since this option ensures that the shadows are largely removed without the other colors to make less clear, which is especially useful if you shoot landscapes and other locations. A miss. Moreover you should be careful when you use this feature, because that could result in a bit of noise in the areas where the ISO-values increase in dark areas. Yet this is a very nice option, but as already noted there may be little enjoyed.
The built flash but we are very happy, because that is very good and quite fast: almost 4 seconds for a partial flash light and not too weak 6.5 seconds for a full discharge when zoomed in somewhere and dark. The scope of the flash is quite impressive for this type of device: 9 meter at ISO 800!
Image quality
As the picture quality is concerned, we are relatively short: who is excellent as long as you do not use high ISO values. Until an ISO value of 64 or 100 is chosen, there is not peachy keen. From ISO 200 but you can already see some quality, though you have already had a good watch. ISO 400 shows more noise and less detail and then it goes straight downhill. ISO values of 800 and 1600 are feasible, but you definitely feel called to not even try to shoot at ISO 3200 or - God help - 6400.
However, those restrictions in mind, can be very beautiful pictures made with the SP-590 UZ, with bright colors and many details (even in congested areas). There is also little color aberration, unless you limit the regions capacity is of the telephoto lens. In the dark we obtained excellent images.
Most impressive are the macro picture: the SP-590 focuses on easily to 1 inches of an object and then delivers excellent results with, too! Fantastic, especially for those who often deals with small animals or objects?
Conclusion
In its price range is the SP-590 UZ did not disappoint. The lens shows strong indeed an asset and thus a selling point to include some and to replace expensive, large lenses that you otherwise in a separate carrying case should take. In the dark, the camera performs well, but if the ISO-values rise above 200, the images are much grainier. Focusing is smooth and fast and the time to zoom is almost negligible when you take into account the power of the lens. In contrast, a few strange decisions, such as the limited usefulness of Shadow Adjustment Technology and the absence of the option to shoot in RAW. This will probably give up demanding photographers. Who is happy with anything less, does this SP-590 UZ a good thing for his own pleasure and purse.
The difference between cheap and expensive cameras
The difference between cheap and expensive cameras
How so cheap?
Manufacturers cut not the sensors that they stop the cheap cameras, so you can use inexpensive equipment also decent photos. They have cut the number of megapixels and above the equipment, but given the quality, you will see little difference. Expensive cameras have on average more megapixels and a range of tele 12x or greater and sometimes you even HD movies. Cheap cameras do not support more than what you least expected of a camera. That is at least enough for the tasks for which a camera you use most often.
Light Conditions
Under good lighting conditions, shooting almost every digital camera's endearing. Only in the dark, with large differences in contrast between light and darkness or poor lighting, problems are visible. Poor light conditions can often remove a flash, just a flash is not always desirable. In such cases you have the light sensitivity of the camera, called the ISO speed, increase. The higher you set this value, the lighter parts of the image are dark. This does cut the noise, and undesirable artifacts appear in the photos. In more expensive cameras are better image sensors, so image quality is better, but not much better than what you based on the price difference should be expected.
Advantages and disadvantages
Many inexpensive devices you have many automatic functions allowing the photographs almost always succeed. A disadvantage is that the battery is less expensive compared to more expensive devices. This is because expensive devices have larger enclosures, which offer more room for larger batteries that last longer. As for the warranty period, manuals and hotline prices make manufacturers no difference between expensive and cheap devices.
Where do you primarily look for when buying a camera
Megapixels: Many consumers think that more megapixels lead to better and sharper pictures, but it is not. Nobody has more than eight megapixels needed. The more megapixels on a sensor there are, the worse the image quality and sensitivity. If your photos to print on A4-size, is a camera with six megapixels enough.
Mega: The more expensive cameras you sometimes see a 18x or 20x zoom. In practice, you got just what if the lighting conditions are favorable. The more you zoom in, you need more light. Moreover megazoom cameras big and they fit in a breast pocket. For most images a 3x zoom is more than enough.
Memory: Most manufacturers use SD cards. This is convenient, because then you are not required to buy new memory cards s all you buy another camera. SD cards are not expensive. For 10 euros you have an 8GB card.
Video recordings: With almost every digital camera can record movies. Note that at least one supports video resolution of 640x480 pixels.
Operation: Try the camera in the store and feel that good in the hand. Take a few pictures and make sure the camera has a short shutter lag. This avoids the issue has disappeared from view before the photo was shot.
How so cheap?
Manufacturers cut not the sensors that they stop the cheap cameras, so you can use inexpensive equipment also decent photos. They have cut the number of megapixels and above the equipment, but given the quality, you will see little difference. Expensive cameras have on average more megapixels and a range of tele 12x or greater and sometimes you even HD movies. Cheap cameras do not support more than what you least expected of a camera. That is at least enough for the tasks for which a camera you use most often.
Light Conditions
Under good lighting conditions, shooting almost every digital camera's endearing. Only in the dark, with large differences in contrast between light and darkness or poor lighting, problems are visible. Poor light conditions can often remove a flash, just a flash is not always desirable. In such cases you have the light sensitivity of the camera, called the ISO speed, increase. The higher you set this value, the lighter parts of the image are dark. This does cut the noise, and undesirable artifacts appear in the photos. In more expensive cameras are better image sensors, so image quality is better, but not much better than what you based on the price difference should be expected.
Advantages and disadvantages
Many inexpensive devices you have many automatic functions allowing the photographs almost always succeed. A disadvantage is that the battery is less expensive compared to more expensive devices. This is because expensive devices have larger enclosures, which offer more room for larger batteries that last longer. As for the warranty period, manuals and hotline prices make manufacturers no difference between expensive and cheap devices.
Where do you primarily look for when buying a camera
Megapixels: Many consumers think that more megapixels lead to better and sharper pictures, but it is not. Nobody has more than eight megapixels needed. The more megapixels on a sensor there are, the worse the image quality and sensitivity. If your photos to print on A4-size, is a camera with six megapixels enough.
Mega: The more expensive cameras you sometimes see a 18x or 20x zoom. In practice, you got just what if the lighting conditions are favorable. The more you zoom in, you need more light. Moreover megazoom cameras big and they fit in a breast pocket. For most images a 3x zoom is more than enough.
Memory: Most manufacturers use SD cards. This is convenient, because then you are not required to buy new memory cards s all you buy another camera. SD cards are not expensive. For 10 euros you have an 8GB card.
Video recordings: With almost every digital camera can record movies. Note that at least one supports video resolution of 640x480 pixels.
Operation: Try the camera in the store and feel that good in the hand. Take a few pictures and make sure the camera has a short shutter lag. This avoids the issue has disappeared from view before the photo was shot.
Prevent problems with the delivery to printers
Prevent problems with the delivery to printers
These ten points after briefly explain the way in the form of a checklist to offering files to the printer without problems. And do not think that only novice designers at some points the error to even experienced designers sometimes forget one of these points.
Fonts not embedded in PDF or missing in program files
When you create a PDF you must make sure that you are sure that the fonts are embedded. This allows people some fonts on their computer still open the file correctly, read and print. If you're using some program files (Quark, InDesign, etc.) should be sent to the font file to print correctly.
Incomplete or corrupt file
Before you send files to the printer or files to open properly be reflected correctly, the pages are complete, the graphics work, etc.
Design colors in RGB instead of the standard for print: CMYK (four color mode)
You can design in RGB, RGB in the design view but the printer print in the CMYK format. It is rare that an accurate computer colors in your design shows. If you forget to convert to RGB mode (if you design for the last time before you save the shipping) in CMYK, this results in black and white and / or inaccurate colors.
Bleeds
A bleed is an area where part of the design falls just outside the intersection. A fault with a bleed ensures that the design is not fully print or create a Wittel line to the cutting edge because the draft is at the intersection to come. For the correct application of bleeds in a large number of printing templates to download (mostly the same standard bleed) so you can take this into account.
Images with too low or too high resolution
Always use 300 dpi. Too low resolution leads to a poor quality image. An image in a high resolution leads to a larger file and longer time pressure without significant quality difference. Often images from the Internet a problem because the resolution (72-100 dpi).
Black and white images saved as RGB or CMYK instead of gray scale
These images are not printed correctly, often with some color. Save on why black and white pictures in gray scale.
Images supplied in the wrong format (JPG, POISON)
Use TIFF / PSD (Photoshop) / PDF. JPG POISON and are good for photos on the Internet because they ensure that the image size is smaller so the images load faster on the Internet. This is not ideal for printing because every time they saved more color and detail are lost. Tiff and psd formats are best for printing images without losing quality and detail.
Missing images in files
Resulting in printing in an empty box.
Improper use program for complex document with several pages
Use applications to design (photoshop) and publishing (brochures, text) as Indesign, Quark or PageMaker. MS Word works well enough for text documents and PowerPoint works well and quickly to present. But restrictions ensure that it is difficult for a good and efficient design with photos and text for example a leaflet, poster or * a Christmas card. If you want a word document or similar type to offer a professional printer then it shall be in pdf format.
Control through a hard copy
Checking the first draft by himself or by printing a proof can help detect any problems (as discussed earlier bleed). The design must be printed on the original size so that any mistakes are easy to see. If the printer has the capacity to print the original size Reduce than the desired rate. Keep this in mind when checking the design.
In many cases the professional printer to design even check the CMYK colors so that such problems come to light. What often strikes only after printing is the bleed. And then there will still be paid for with a printing error. By considering the above in the design process you prevent problems and improve the quality of the prints.
These ten points after briefly explain the way in the form of a checklist to offering files to the printer without problems. And do not think that only novice designers at some points the error to even experienced designers sometimes forget one of these points.
Fonts not embedded in PDF or missing in program files
When you create a PDF you must make sure that you are sure that the fonts are embedded. This allows people some fonts on their computer still open the file correctly, read and print. If you're using some program files (Quark, InDesign, etc.) should be sent to the font file to print correctly.
Incomplete or corrupt file
Before you send files to the printer or files to open properly be reflected correctly, the pages are complete, the graphics work, etc.
Design colors in RGB instead of the standard for print: CMYK (four color mode)
You can design in RGB, RGB in the design view but the printer print in the CMYK format. It is rare that an accurate computer colors in your design shows. If you forget to convert to RGB mode (if you design for the last time before you save the shipping) in CMYK, this results in black and white and / or inaccurate colors.
Bleeds
A bleed is an area where part of the design falls just outside the intersection. A fault with a bleed ensures that the design is not fully print or create a Wittel line to the cutting edge because the draft is at the intersection to come. For the correct application of bleeds in a large number of printing templates to download (mostly the same standard bleed) so you can take this into account.
Images with too low or too high resolution
Always use 300 dpi. Too low resolution leads to a poor quality image. An image in a high resolution leads to a larger file and longer time pressure without significant quality difference. Often images from the Internet a problem because the resolution (72-100 dpi).
Black and white images saved as RGB or CMYK instead of gray scale
These images are not printed correctly, often with some color. Save on why black and white pictures in gray scale.
Images supplied in the wrong format (JPG, POISON)
Use TIFF / PSD (Photoshop) / PDF. JPG POISON and are good for photos on the Internet because they ensure that the image size is smaller so the images load faster on the Internet. This is not ideal for printing because every time they saved more color and detail are lost. Tiff and psd formats are best for printing images without losing quality and detail.
Missing images in files
Resulting in printing in an empty box.
Improper use program for complex document with several pages
Use applications to design (photoshop) and publishing (brochures, text) as Indesign, Quark or PageMaker. MS Word works well enough for text documents and PowerPoint works well and quickly to present. But restrictions ensure that it is difficult for a good and efficient design with photos and text for example a leaflet, poster or * a Christmas card. If you want a word document or similar type to offer a professional printer then it shall be in pdf format.
Control through a hard copy
Checking the first draft by himself or by printing a proof can help detect any problems (as discussed earlier bleed). The design must be printed on the original size so that any mistakes are easy to see. If the printer has the capacity to print the original size Reduce than the desired rate. Keep this in mind when checking the design.
In many cases the professional printer to design even check the CMYK colors so that such problems come to light. What often strikes only after printing is the bleed. And then there will still be paid for with a printing error. By considering the above in the design process you prevent problems and improve the quality of the prints.
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