Photography, writing with light
History
In the 19th century was first experimented with making a picture. It was also a very difficult and time consuming job. Around 1800 there were two practical principles of using essential for making a picture. The first principle was the effect of the 'camera obscura'. That is Italian for "dark room". The camera obscura was one, as the name suggests, dark room where a small hole through which light shone Sat. The image was inverted by the hole seemed projected on the back of the room, where the light ray radiation. If the hole was made the image disappeared, and precisely where the problem was that the picture had to be held. The second useful principle was fortunately known: some materials discolor by the sun.
In 1822, the first picture in the world by the Frenchman Joseph Niepce made. This job took him eight hours. The problem was him in the highlight. Partly this was the image that even after eight hours have blurred and dark. It was obviously very important that the camera that photographed and what was not allowed to move. But this time the photographer had no camera with all buttons and clever tricks for the best picture possible. The device that the photographer used that time consisted of a heavy wooden cabinet with glass in it. With such a photo album could be made. When the plates were on had to be placed in a new.
The Frenchman Louis Daguerre knew about ten years after the invention of Niepce a better picture. The picture was sharper and it took only half hour to develop him. Daguerre worked with copper plates that had a size of approximately 16 by 21 inches. But as Louis Daguerre Joseph Niepce had also many things to get a good picture and develop. In 1836, not long after the invention of Niepce, the Englishman William Fox Talbot took the paper-negative. The advantage was that multiple prints per image could be made. In 1888 the first roll of film camera invented by American George Eastman. His camera called the Kodak, a mark that still exists. After this invention, the cameras finally past the loose boards, and took a picture and develop increasingly shorter.
Types of cameras
There are different types of cameras, each with different functions. Here are the famous:
Rangefinder camera
These types of cameras are very small and compact. They do not have interchangeable lenses and cameras are especially suited for making vacation and family photos. There is however a downside to rangefinder cameras: the viewfinder and the lens does not give exactly the same picture. The viewfinder (the glass underneath which looks) and the lens are placed outside each other. The picture is made may therefore be different to see, and especially photographs near the subject photographed. For a good picture is so important to what it should be photographed in the middle of the image, so that everything would come to stand.
SLR
The SLR has a small mirror behind the lens surface, hence the name. This camera lenses can be changed so that many professional photos can be made.
Digital Camera
This is a new type of camera since the early 90s there. Compared to the other two species, the digital camera has many advantages. First there is a window in which the pictures can be viewed. Photos that 'mistake', for instance, the blur can be erased immediately. Secondly, the camera does not roll but a memory disc where the photos end up. First, the images recorded by a small piece of electronics that the CCD (Charged Device Coppeld) is called. The CCD consists of millions of cells that the image itself and then as an electronic pass code to the memory disc. These codes consist of all zeros and ones, as the data on the hard disk of a computer. The big advantage of a digital camera is that pictures on the computer can be put. From the computer, the images are sent via e-mail or they can be put on the Internet. But there is more: the photos can be updated on the computer. Or bumps can be colored backgrounds and / or otherwise modified so that the picture can meet your needs. Press Photographers also experience many benefits from the digital camera. From example, Australia could easily picture to a computer via the Netherlands for example are sent. It does because no dark room to pass out and the picture can be printed directly on paper.
Not all digital cameras are equally good. It depends mainly on the amount of pixels a camera has. The pixels are small dots which one because the image is built. Good cameras have a higher number of pixels less than good cameras. Cameras that are cheap usually around 1 million pixels. The more expensive types usually have about 3 million pixels. The quantity can be expressed in pixels resolution. The resolution is the extent to which the objects (eg pictures) are still distinct from each other. The higher the resolution, the larger the image can be made.
Digital photos can be stored in two ways: as a JPEG or TIFF file. The jpeg file causes the picture with very little memory space can be stored without the quality and size of the photo being interfered. This is called image compression. Images that are stored in this way can therefore quickly by e-mail. In a tiff file take pictures much memory space, but the quality is excellent and all details are clearly visible. The photographs in this way are stored uncompressed or compressed the opposite. The latter is the case with a jpeg file.
Types of lenses
There are not only different types of cameras, but also various types of lenses. They are divided into four types:
Standard Lens
This lens is all visible, as it normally is also observed. The picture here is not distorted.
Angle
This lens is the opposite of the standard lens. The image is made smaller and distorted. One advantage is that more fit on one picture.
Telephoto
The telephoto increases the subject from a distance. This lens is very suitable for sports or nature photography. A disadvantage is that the background can be a bit blurred. In addition to this it is difficult to photograph because the smallest vibration will move the image, because something very close to being achieved.
Zoom lens
This is a combination of the standard lens, wide angle and telephoto. This lens itself can be determined what needs to be established.
söndag 22 november 2009
Scrapbooking, how do you do that?
Scrapbooking, how do you do that?
Scrap Book. Maybe you've heard of. But what is it exactly, scrapbooking? It is simply your photos on an elegant pasting. But then so that the page is a feast for the eye. That may sound simple, but it is not.
Because how are you going to start a page? Always choose the photo s from which you want to use for your page. Just look closely at the photo s themselves. What colors do you see it come back? Look at the materials you want to use. Scrapbook Pages s are specially made cardboard called Card Stock. These are sheets of 30 by 30 cm and are available in many colors and patterns.
So choose colors that occur in your photo. For example, holiday snaps where the sea in it, take your blue, and photographs which can occur in many natural green take. Clearly, these are simple examples, but if it works the easiest. If you've decided which colors you take for your card stock, then move on to look decorative material. This material can really be anything. Ribbon, buttons, shells, you can not think of as crazy or you can for your page. So make a selection from your chosen decoration materials. Just be sure that it fits in your chosen subject.
Once you've selected your materials all go watch the pictures you want on your page s. This is called a layout making. When you first start it is useful to some existing lay-outs of the Internet to collect or from the countless books on this subject have already appeared. Then you get some practice before you get your own layouts to start. You want your page to make course beating.
Once you have a specific layout for it's time to look at some scrapbook techniques. You can eg mats. Mats is simply affix your photo on cardboard and then cutting to ensure that there is an edge of the colored paper remains visible. Your list as it were in your photo. You can choose to do 1 color, or you can say I mat several times so you get all different frames, this gives us a very beautiful and finished effect. If you decide it s all your pictures to can be a beautiful whole, that the colors nicely together aansliut.
Of course there are many more scrapbook techniques, and terms such as eye-lets, a kind of staples that you can hit the paper, Brads, which are then small or large split pins that you kanmaken things down and so much more . If you want to start out Look before you leap, because it is so fun to do, you son of everybody wants to volplakkenBedenk album that most items are available on the Internet, often expensive, so make sure your prices Shops remain compare.
Scrap Book. Maybe you've heard of. But what is it exactly, scrapbooking? It is simply your photos on an elegant pasting. But then so that the page is a feast for the eye. That may sound simple, but it is not.
Because how are you going to start a page? Always choose the photo s from which you want to use for your page. Just look closely at the photo s themselves. What colors do you see it come back? Look at the materials you want to use. Scrapbook Pages s are specially made cardboard called Card Stock. These are sheets of 30 by 30 cm and are available in many colors and patterns.
So choose colors that occur in your photo. For example, holiday snaps where the sea in it, take your blue, and photographs which can occur in many natural green take. Clearly, these are simple examples, but if it works the easiest. If you've decided which colors you take for your card stock, then move on to look decorative material. This material can really be anything. Ribbon, buttons, shells, you can not think of as crazy or you can for your page. So make a selection from your chosen decoration materials. Just be sure that it fits in your chosen subject.
Once you've selected your materials all go watch the pictures you want on your page s. This is called a layout making. When you first start it is useful to some existing lay-outs of the Internet to collect or from the countless books on this subject have already appeared. Then you get some practice before you get your own layouts to start. You want your page to make course beating.
Once you have a specific layout for it's time to look at some scrapbook techniques. You can eg mats. Mats is simply affix your photo on cardboard and then cutting to ensure that there is an edge of the colored paper remains visible. Your list as it were in your photo. You can choose to do 1 color, or you can say I mat several times so you get all different frames, this gives us a very beautiful and finished effect. If you decide it s all your pictures to can be a beautiful whole, that the colors nicely together aansliut.
Of course there are many more scrapbook techniques, and terms such as eye-lets, a kind of staples that you can hit the paper, Brads, which are then small or large split pins that you kanmaken things down and so much more . If you want to start out Look before you leap, because it is so fun to do, you son of everybody wants to volplakkenBedenk album that most items are available on the Internet, often expensive, so make sure your prices Shops remain compare.
Pixels, what can you do with it?
Pixels, what can you do with it?
E-mail, web or screen
If you want to share a photo via e-mail or present on a website or slideshow, you must think in pixels. The best quality for a picture on a screen to display as one pixel of the picture coincides with a pixel of the monitor (100% or 1 in 1). If you have a digital camera with 8 million pixels, it makes these pictures of 3264 by 2448 pixels. See you this 1 on 1 (browser) on a monitor with a screen resolution of 1280 by 1024 pixels (SXGA), it remains 85% of the picture out of view. Which shows that we have a camera with 1.4 million pixels are enough to e-mail, website or display images to present.
Photos from digital cameras with more megapixels should therefore be reduced by physically removing pixels. This can in most photo editing programs like Adobe Photoshop Elements and Paint Shop Pro. In the dialog where you can do this, you can specify different variables. Make sure the unit is in pixels and specify the values of the reduced size of between 800 to 600 in 1280 and 1024 (4:3 compact camera). With a 3:2 aspect ratio (SLR camera) is 780 to 520 to 1260 at 840. Of the (printing) resolution is nothing to pull.
Print
How many pixels you need for a good print depends on the desired size of the print and the number of pixels per inch (2.45 cm) needed for a visually sharp print. These pixels or dots per inch (dpi) print resolution called, and this is important. The print resolution is less (fewer pixels / ink droplets per inch needed), as the size increases (see table).
Print Size (cm / inch) Viewing Distance (cm) (dpi) resolution Pixel Format Megapixels
15x10 / 6x4 30 300 1800 x1200 2.16
30x20 / 12x8 60 225 2700 x1800 4.86
60x40 / 24x16 120 140 3360 x2240 7.53
120x80 / 48x32 240 80 38x2560 9.83
This has to do with the viewing distance to the picture. A print of 15 by 10 cm to 30 cm and it looks requires 300 pixels per inch. At a magnification of 30 by 20 cm viewing distance is 60 cm. Your eye sees less detail and with 225dpi the picture still looks sharp. In a print of 75 by 50 cm, the viewer at least 1.5 meters away, and can decrease the resolution to 110 dpi.
In the same dialog in which you reduce the photos for use on a screen, projector or LCD TV you can also specify print size and resolution.
* Example 1: If the 8 megapixel camera (3264 by 2448 pixels) and you want to print at 200 dpi, then the width of the print 3264 divided by 200, being 16.32 inches (41.45 x 2.45 = cm)
* Example 2: Would you make a print of 30 by 20 cm (approx. 12x8 inches) at 225 dpi, then you have about 2700 pixels (= 12 x 225) in the required width and 1800 (= 8 x 225) in the height. This is a picture of almost 5 Megapixel.
E-mail, web or screen
If you want to share a photo via e-mail or present on a website or slideshow, you must think in pixels. The best quality for a picture on a screen to display as one pixel of the picture coincides with a pixel of the monitor (100% or 1 in 1). If you have a digital camera with 8 million pixels, it makes these pictures of 3264 by 2448 pixels. See you this 1 on 1 (browser) on a monitor with a screen resolution of 1280 by 1024 pixels (SXGA), it remains 85% of the picture out of view. Which shows that we have a camera with 1.4 million pixels are enough to e-mail, website or display images to present.
Photos from digital cameras with more megapixels should therefore be reduced by physically removing pixels. This can in most photo editing programs like Adobe Photoshop Elements and Paint Shop Pro. In the dialog where you can do this, you can specify different variables. Make sure the unit is in pixels and specify the values of the reduced size of between 800 to 600 in 1280 and 1024 (4:3 compact camera). With a 3:2 aspect ratio (SLR camera) is 780 to 520 to 1260 at 840. Of the (printing) resolution is nothing to pull.
How many pixels you need for a good print depends on the desired size of the print and the number of pixels per inch (2.45 cm) needed for a visually sharp print. These pixels or dots per inch (dpi) print resolution called, and this is important. The print resolution is less (fewer pixels / ink droplets per inch needed), as the size increases (see table).
Print Size (cm / inch) Viewing Distance (cm) (dpi) resolution Pixel Format Megapixels
15x10 / 6x4 30 300 1800 x1200 2.16
30x20 / 12x8 60 225 2700 x1800 4.86
60x40 / 24x16 120 140 3360 x2240 7.53
120x80 / 48x32 240 80 38x2560 9.83
This has to do with the viewing distance to the picture. A print of 15 by 10 cm to 30 cm and it looks requires 300 pixels per inch. At a magnification of 30 by 20 cm viewing distance is 60 cm. Your eye sees less detail and with 225dpi the picture still looks sharp. In a print of 75 by 50 cm, the viewer at least 1.5 meters away, and can decrease the resolution to 110 dpi.
In the same dialog in which you reduce the photos for use on a screen, projector or LCD TV you can also specify print size and resolution.
* Example 1: If the 8 megapixel camera (3264 by 2448 pixels) and you want to print at 200 dpi, then the width of the print 3264 divided by 200, being 16.32 inches (41.45 x 2.45 = cm)
* Example 2: Would you make a print of 30 by 20 cm (approx. 12x8 inches) at 225 dpi, then you have about 2700 pixels (= 12 x 225) in the required width and 1800 (= 8 x 225) in the height. This is a picture of almost 5 Megapixel.
10 photography tips
10 photography tips
Anyone can make better pictures with a few handy tips. It does not matter whether you have an expensive or inexpensive camera. It is even better to start with a cheap camera, because you are not distracted by all the extra features. I assume that people with a digital camera photography. But these tips are useful if you want to shoot with a cell phone.
Tip 1: Keep your camera steady. Then the image is much sharper. The move creates jitter. This is used as an effect. Sometimes pictures with jitter is just very beautiful. If you want to use this effect you take very many photos and hope that a few well succeeded. It is important that you take the picture when the camera moves, for example from left to right or front to back.
Tip 2: Take multiple photos. If you have a digital camera can often hundreds of photos on an SD-card set. Also make use of. It can always be just that someone with his eyes closed or half closed on the photo, that you sometimes see on your little screen.
Tip 3: Create different shots. If you shoot a person, you can "in a nutshell 'shooting. That is, in its entirety ie including feet. But you can also make close-ups. It is always useful to different framing to make the best framework for later kuinnen to choose.
Tip 4: Do the right horizon. If you shoot someone you sometimes forget you or the camera eropte watch the camera straight. Care in any case the horizon is. This makes the picture like a much more pleasant to watch. Pictures with a deliberately crooked horizon can also be great if you overdo it with a diagonal horizon.
Tip 5: Say something funny when you shoot someone. A picture is much nicer if someone laughs spontaneously.
Tip 6: Take lots of photos, and good practice in quick shots with straight horizon, still held camera and the other tips in mind. This prevents disappointments. Nothing is more annoying than someone asking you for a picture and then when that is taken and you must admit that the picture has failed.
Tip 7: Learn the capabilities of your camera very well. There are so many possibilities with a digital camera that affect the picture quality. Make sure you under any circumstance that the camera in the correct position, and that you can quickly adjust.
Tip 8: Dare less successful photos to throw away. Let not your SD card with enough pictures failed because the task is discarded later anyway. Furthermore you continuously look critically at your own pictures. The high bar for yourself to make the result better and better.
Tip 9: Set the day off when you flash a picture of a landscape. This fact has little use and only takes batteries or battery power. If you close range in the daytime (up to 3 meter), then it makes sense to use it unless a flash "fill flash". The fill flash, the subject a little more light making it separate from the background, the picture is beautiful in its entirety.
Tip 10: Use a photo editing program to edit your photos 'cropping'. That is all cut away what is not nice get up.
Anyone can make better pictures with a few handy tips. It does not matter whether you have an expensive or inexpensive camera. It is even better to start with a cheap camera, because you are not distracted by all the extra features. I assume that people with a digital camera photography. But these tips are useful if you want to shoot with a cell phone.
Tip 1: Keep your camera steady. Then the image is much sharper. The move creates jitter. This is used as an effect. Sometimes pictures with jitter is just very beautiful. If you want to use this effect you take very many photos and hope that a few well succeeded. It is important that you take the picture when the camera moves, for example from left to right or front to back.
Tip 2: Take multiple photos. If you have a digital camera can often hundreds of photos on an SD-card set. Also make use of. It can always be just that someone with his eyes closed or half closed on the photo, that you sometimes see on your little screen.
Tip 3: Create different shots. If you shoot a person, you can "in a nutshell 'shooting. That is, in its entirety ie including feet. But you can also make close-ups. It is always useful to different framing to make the best framework for later kuinnen to choose.
Tip 4: Do the right horizon. If you shoot someone you sometimes forget you or the camera eropte watch the camera straight. Care in any case the horizon is. This makes the picture like a much more pleasant to watch. Pictures with a deliberately crooked horizon can also be great if you overdo it with a diagonal horizon.
Tip 5: Say something funny when you shoot someone. A picture is much nicer if someone laughs spontaneously.
Tip 6: Take lots of photos, and good practice in quick shots with straight horizon, still held camera and the other tips in mind. This prevents disappointments. Nothing is more annoying than someone asking you for a picture and then when that is taken and you must admit that the picture has failed.
Tip 7: Learn the capabilities of your camera very well. There are so many possibilities with a digital camera that affect the picture quality. Make sure you under any circumstance that the camera in the correct position, and that you can quickly adjust.
Tip 8: Dare less successful photos to throw away. Let not your SD card with enough pictures failed because the task is discarded later anyway. Furthermore you continuously look critically at your own pictures. The high bar for yourself to make the result better and better.
Tip 9: Set the day off when you flash a picture of a landscape. This fact has little use and only takes batteries or battery power. If you close range in the daytime (up to 3 meter), then it makes sense to use it unless a flash "fill flash". The fill flash, the subject a little more light making it separate from the background, the picture is beautiful in its entirety.
Tip 10: Use a photo editing program to edit your photos 'cropping'. That is all cut away what is not nice get up.
torsdag 19 november 2009
Working with strobes: Strobist!
Working with strobes: Strobist!
Throughout the world there are photographers who like to play with light and light effects. Many a photographer carries a whole rack of lights / spotlights and strobes with them, for the ultimate picture. Some disadvantages were also quick: the weight of a complete system flash (strobes, soft boxes, tripods, power supplies) was just heavy. Until a few are thought to external flash (the so-called flash report) to exploit this. And see there: soon the cry "strobist" a fact. Strobist is a corruption of the English word "strobe" an independent report which called flash. Strobist is the person who assumes this report bekwaamt in flash photography.
What will it take?
Ofcourse a camera in your possession, otherwise so difficult to photograph;)
A simple kit for strobist-done 1 may already be compiled flash report:
* A tripod;
* A swivel (this is a turning-point where the flash and the umbrella can be mounted);
* A flash umbrella (white / translucent or silver / gold for the bounce (or 'bounced' called);
* A channel for the camera (this is on the hot-shoe, the assembly point where the flash is normal);
* A receiver (with external flash is connected);
Depending on the flash, which you can often buy used, the costs for other materials so around 130-150 Euros (estimated / budgeted). The big advantage is that such an enormous set of light weight, and thus very portable for indoor and outdoor locations!
The flash report
The report may flash of the same brand as the camera you own, but it is not required. You can even very old flash photography from the analog era exploit! By using a radio transmitter / receiver can thus differ. So you find a used copy, already look after the flash has that GN. The guide number indicates how 'powerful' is the flash, at 1 meter distance to an object to expose the largest aperture number (and thus smaller aperture hole), with a 50 mm lens on a 35mm camera.
Some manufacturers specify the GN at ISO 100, ISO 200 others, that a factor 1.4 difference in guide number visible. So be good at!
Furthermore, the flash just works, and so light. Ideal is a manually adjustable flash with a range of 1 / 128 to 1 / 1 (full power).
The tripod
The tripod should be solid, especially to unstable / shaky! There are many stands in the market, and what is important (in addition to the placement firm), is the height of the tripod. Is an average height of 180cm/200cm beautiful and very useful. Is the height of the tripod is too low, then you limit yourself in the application of exposure to the model.
The swivel
The swivel is the pivot of the tripod with the flash / umbrella combination. Track the flash umbrella tilt up / down and also rotate (left / right) to your model / subject correctly explain.
Note that you have to purchase a good solid connection to swivel the flash can make. You must not think that your flash off the swivel moves, and falls on the hard surface ....
The flash-umbrella
The umbrella-flash ensures the spread of the light: you can view together (converge) using a silver / gold flash umbrella, or spreading (divergence) by a white umbrella (also called "shoot-through is called). The advantage of a white umbrella is a nice diffuse light, which is very nice skin of a person doing light. Skin bumps are lightly masked this.
The silver / gold umbrella for gecontentreerde (and harder) to throw light on the model. With the gold variant get a warmer skin tones glow thrown over him. The silver umbrella is good for the highlight of a hard topic.
The transmitter / receiver
The transmitter and receiver are important for communication between the camera and the flash. Because the flash of the camera, the signal must be transmitted properly. First there are models available that entry between 40-60 EUR (estimated) over the counter. Professional transmitter / receivers, such as the Pocket Wizard and Skyport Elinchrom, for amounts that are many times higher road. Contrast is greater reliability in flash-communication, and scope.
The slide channel of the hotshoe on the camera, involving the setting on the transmitter and the receiver must be aligned properly in advance. Also check your manual on the flash-sync speed. Because you top this flash sync can work, can take a picture when the shutter curtain covers one part of your photo (black and so late).
Average is the flash sync around 1 / 200 a 1 / 250 seconds. So until that time, the sensor / film in its entirety at once exposed.
And so on ...
Now for a flash you a starter-set created, you can get started with strobist photography. Would you expand, because you have more flash, you will for each flash in any case require an additional receiver. Moreover, as you become more and more skilled in this branch of photography, you can still expand with accessories like gels (for the flash from one color to shine (very nice for the background)), blew (to flash to bundle up a light beam), honeycomb (for parallel light rays toward the subject, without scattering) and so on!
Creativity is ultimately the only obstacle to the photographer!
Throughout the world there are photographers who like to play with light and light effects. Many a photographer carries a whole rack of lights / spotlights and strobes with them, for the ultimate picture. Some disadvantages were also quick: the weight of a complete system flash (strobes, soft boxes, tripods, power supplies) was just heavy. Until a few are thought to external flash (the so-called flash report) to exploit this. And see there: soon the cry "strobist" a fact. Strobist is a corruption of the English word "strobe" an independent report which called flash. Strobist is the person who assumes this report bekwaamt in flash photography.
What will it take?
Ofcourse a camera in your possession, otherwise so difficult to photograph;)
A simple kit for strobist-done 1 may already be compiled flash report:
* A tripod;
* A swivel (this is a turning-point where the flash and the umbrella can be mounted);
* A flash umbrella (white / translucent or silver / gold for the bounce (or 'bounced' called);
* A channel for the camera (this is on the hot-shoe, the assembly point where the flash is normal);
* A receiver (with external flash is connected);
Depending on the flash, which you can often buy used, the costs for other materials so around 130-150 Euros (estimated / budgeted). The big advantage is that such an enormous set of light weight, and thus very portable for indoor and outdoor locations!
The flash report
The report may flash of the same brand as the camera you own, but it is not required. You can even very old flash photography from the analog era exploit! By using a radio transmitter / receiver can thus differ. So you find a used copy, already look after the flash has that GN. The guide number indicates how 'powerful' is the flash, at 1 meter distance to an object to expose the largest aperture number (and thus smaller aperture hole), with a 50 mm lens on a 35mm camera.
Some manufacturers specify the GN at ISO 100, ISO 200 others, that a factor 1.4 difference in guide number visible. So be good at!
Furthermore, the flash just works, and so light. Ideal is a manually adjustable flash with a range of 1 / 128 to 1 / 1 (full power).
The tripod
The tripod should be solid, especially to unstable / shaky! There are many stands in the market, and what is important (in addition to the placement firm), is the height of the tripod. Is an average height of 180cm/200cm beautiful and very useful. Is the height of the tripod is too low, then you limit yourself in the application of exposure to the model.
The swivel
The swivel is the pivot of the tripod with the flash / umbrella combination. Track the flash umbrella tilt up / down and also rotate (left / right) to your model / subject correctly explain.
Note that you have to purchase a good solid connection to swivel the flash can make. You must not think that your flash off the swivel moves, and falls on the hard surface ....
The flash-umbrella
The umbrella-flash ensures the spread of the light: you can view together (converge) using a silver / gold flash umbrella, or spreading (divergence) by a white umbrella (also called "shoot-through is called). The advantage of a white umbrella is a nice diffuse light, which is very nice skin of a person doing light. Skin bumps are lightly masked this.
The silver / gold umbrella for gecontentreerde (and harder) to throw light on the model. With the gold variant get a warmer skin tones glow thrown over him. The silver umbrella is good for the highlight of a hard topic.
The transmitter / receiver
The transmitter and receiver are important for communication between the camera and the flash. Because the flash of the camera, the signal must be transmitted properly. First there are models available that entry between 40-60 EUR (estimated) over the counter. Professional transmitter / receivers, such as the Pocket Wizard and Skyport Elinchrom, for amounts that are many times higher road. Contrast is greater reliability in flash-communication, and scope.
The slide channel of the hotshoe on the camera, involving the setting on the transmitter and the receiver must be aligned properly in advance. Also check your manual on the flash-sync speed. Because you top this flash sync can work, can take a picture when the shutter curtain covers one part of your photo (black and so late).
Average is the flash sync around 1 / 200 a 1 / 250 seconds. So until that time, the sensor / film in its entirety at once exposed.
And so on ...
Now for a flash you a starter-set created, you can get started with strobist photography. Would you expand, because you have more flash, you will for each flash in any case require an additional receiver. Moreover, as you become more and more skilled in this branch of photography, you can still expand with accessories like gels (for the flash from one color to shine (very nice for the background)), blew (to flash to bundle up a light beam), honeycomb (for parallel light rays toward the subject, without scattering) and so on!
Creativity is ultimately the only obstacle to the photographer!
Review: Olympus E-450
Review: Olympus E-450
Olympus makes it even lighter
The successor to the E-420 (previously discussed by us) is equipped with an LCD screen 2.7 inches, an enhanced Live View mode, wireless flash control, Shadow Adjustment Technology and a Supersonic Wave Filter for dust counter but strangely enough has no internal image stabilizer. Wonder if the E-450 - which is priced soft - it also does well in practice!
Draft
Like the E-400, E-410 and E-420 E-450 sees a bit of retro. This means that no clear handle exists, what also causes the camera to remain smaller. Despite its light weight (just over 425 grams with the battery in the body) feels the unit to a sufficiently robust. The latter is made possible by the use of fiber-reinforced plastic, the material for most Olympus cameras within this range is used.
To the E-450 comfortable to hold, you need the weight and the lens - just as photographers did that decades ago - to support the left, while the right to use the buttons to operate and to keep everything in balance. Nevertheless, this camera more suitable for people with smaller hands than for giants.
The buttons are also very easily accessible and are all to be found in smart site selection, while the optical viewfinder is fairly clear and we have little in the picture could detect abnormalities. Who wants manual focus and sufficient time to take a picture, but that does better in Live View.
As was the case with the E-420 is the status LCD screen vertically along the right side. The rear LCD screen is 2.7 inches wide and there is no separate monochrome LCD screen, you can during the "record' mode just push the INFO button to display the status to call. Through the OK button you can in a similar way, even all the important settings from the display to match, a great way to ensure that the E-450 very user remains. Unfortunately, some common values (such as focus mode, white balance and ISO sensitivity) is not directly adjusted via the four directional buttons (which only the left one is adjustable), as you can to include the E-620.
Now we are a fully mobile cameras LCD screen to be discussed, we lack that feature. However, Olympus has clearly thought well, because the screen is viewed through a very wide angle views are, which is useful for, among other concert photography through between the public must remain. If you use manual focus and Live View, you can make a green rectangle appear in the middle of the display. Controlled by the four directional buttons and can be enlarged by clicking "OK" to push. Handy! Of course you can on the LCD will also display a histogram, a grid or information on the call settings. Who calls the Super Control Panel can continue to use a semi-transparent "overlay".
Obviously, this is again a "FourThirds' camera, meaning you get more focus and depth smaller sensors. The lenses can thus remain quite small and light, as is clear from the standard 14-42 mm zoom lens that belonged to our unit. Normally all this theoretically yield more noise (especially at higher sensitivities), but in practice, that usually turn out okay. But we discovered that the detail sharpness from f/16 really began to decrease, as can be expected. What we now expect from Olympus is even the possibility of both a Compact Flash and xD-Picture card, all you need to record a still image of the two cards to choose. Simultaneous recording is not an option yet, but copy from one card to another can of course.
Taking pictures
When the optical viewfinder and Live View not used, the E-450 provides for a reasonably fast autofocus, although so only through three focus points. A bit rudimentary, so, not enough for most professional photographers, but enough for most users. But in January as usual you choose between different institutions, which are directly available through a wheel first: fully automatic, P, A, S, M ... The E-450 is clearly designed for amateur photographers who like to have more options than usual, because there are fewer than 18 scene settings and 3 'creative' functions available. The latter are: pop, soft focus and pinhole. If you are used to complete the E-620 to use, know very well that the stocks of grainy black and white, pastel colors and light colors are missing, but it is nice to pop in for example directly to work. The Four Thirds system has no way to soft focus lenses, so we especially welcome the addition of that option.
The lack of more creative tools is partially offset by the fact that you have several filters to choose from. Whoever takes snaps in black and white, so can choose among red and orange (for a 'hot' sky), green (for more contrast with leaves), etc.. We recommend it to first to try this in Live View, which is also ideal for adjustments in the hue, such as sepia, ice blue or violet. Anyone who now claims that Live View is a significant addition, is either very stubborn or of ill will, because it really is very handy at the screen to see exactly how a picture will look. That way, you are much faster to choose the correct settings.
Image
While we initially went into the fog a few times when we had to use flash, it is recorded that the new imaging system (TruepicIII +) is indeed a (slight) improvement over its predecessor. While we take pictures under an ISO value of 800, not moved too much and not too much zoomed in, we were always sharp images. Unfortunately showed the lack of stabilization in the body is sometimes felt, or so we were slightly blurry pictures. Usually, however, we had little trouble, so we are quite pleased with the performance of the E-450. The E-620 seems a better choice, but is more expensive, while the price-quality ratio of the E-450 really is very good.
Even in the "Natural' mode we got bright colors and also led the Shadow Adjustment Technology ensure that we were little affected by high contrasts. We recommend it to SAT only to be in situations where there is strong light and high-contrast, but in such cases the technology well. Not surprising, because in this field Olympus has already built a good reputation.
Moreover you can even noise filter set to 'Low', 'Standard' or 'High'. Very useful, because in an environment with natural light is a little grain in the picture quite charming. As usual we were at ISO values above 800 are significantly more noise, but as long as you do not artificially inflate the images, everything falls perfectly into. Those who like night shooting, the "Bulb' mode switching for exposure times of 30 minutes to get to. The shutter speed is adjustable up to 60 seconds.
After a while we were working, the flash appeared to be in order. Users can choose between 'Auto', 'Manual', 'Fill' and 'Slow Synchronization ", as you usually" Red Eye Reduction "can turn. The red eyes that we often saw in pictures that we took were almost always almost completely eliminated when liked that last option. All this can also wirelessly, we probably should not mention.
Assessment
If we take account of its light weight and the fairly extensive options, we must conclude that the E-450 a great value for money. In this price range there are little devices that better. It is true that the absence of (mainly) stabilization and half LCD sometimes a thorn in the eye. Moreover, you no video recording with the E-450 and that is something even a mobile phone of today is 50 euros. Anyone who has more money, so most opt for the E-620, while wealthy photographers may drool on the E-30 (discussed in our next article). Amateurs are not too deep into the pockets to attack, but will be very satisfied with the E-450, the purchase of an ordinary digital camera is almost insane.
Olympus makes it even lighter
The successor to the E-420 (previously discussed by us) is equipped with an LCD screen 2.7 inches, an enhanced Live View mode, wireless flash control, Shadow Adjustment Technology and a Supersonic Wave Filter for dust counter but strangely enough has no internal image stabilizer. Wonder if the E-450 - which is priced soft - it also does well in practice!
Draft
Like the E-400, E-410 and E-420 E-450 sees a bit of retro. This means that no clear handle exists, what also causes the camera to remain smaller. Despite its light weight (just over 425 grams with the battery in the body) feels the unit to a sufficiently robust. The latter is made possible by the use of fiber-reinforced plastic, the material for most Olympus cameras within this range is used.
To the E-450 comfortable to hold, you need the weight and the lens - just as photographers did that decades ago - to support the left, while the right to use the buttons to operate and to keep everything in balance. Nevertheless, this camera more suitable for people with smaller hands than for giants.
The buttons are also very easily accessible and are all to be found in smart site selection, while the optical viewfinder is fairly clear and we have little in the picture could detect abnormalities. Who wants manual focus and sufficient time to take a picture, but that does better in Live View.
As was the case with the E-420 is the status LCD screen vertically along the right side. The rear LCD screen is 2.7 inches wide and there is no separate monochrome LCD screen, you can during the "record' mode just push the INFO button to display the status to call. Through the OK button you can in a similar way, even all the important settings from the display to match, a great way to ensure that the E-450 very user remains. Unfortunately, some common values (such as focus mode, white balance and ISO sensitivity) is not directly adjusted via the four directional buttons (which only the left one is adjustable), as you can to include the E-620.
Now we are a fully mobile cameras LCD screen to be discussed, we lack that feature. However, Olympus has clearly thought well, because the screen is viewed through a very wide angle views are, which is useful for, among other concert photography through between the public must remain. If you use manual focus and Live View, you can make a green rectangle appear in the middle of the display. Controlled by the four directional buttons and can be enlarged by clicking "OK" to push. Handy! Of course you can on the LCD will also display a histogram, a grid or information on the call settings. Who calls the Super Control Panel can continue to use a semi-transparent "overlay".
Obviously, this is again a "FourThirds' camera, meaning you get more focus and depth smaller sensors. The lenses can thus remain quite small and light, as is clear from the standard 14-42 mm zoom lens that belonged to our unit. Normally all this theoretically yield more noise (especially at higher sensitivities), but in practice, that usually turn out okay. But we discovered that the detail sharpness from f/16 really began to decrease, as can be expected. What we now expect from Olympus is even the possibility of both a Compact Flash and xD-Picture card, all you need to record a still image of the two cards to choose. Simultaneous recording is not an option yet, but copy from one card to another can of course.
Taking pictures
When the optical viewfinder and Live View not used, the E-450 provides for a reasonably fast autofocus, although so only through three focus points. A bit rudimentary, so, not enough for most professional photographers, but enough for most users. But in January as usual you choose between different institutions, which are directly available through a wheel first: fully automatic, P, A, S, M ... The E-450 is clearly designed for amateur photographers who like to have more options than usual, because there are fewer than 18 scene settings and 3 'creative' functions available. The latter are: pop, soft focus and pinhole. If you are used to complete the E-620 to use, know very well that the stocks of grainy black and white, pastel colors and light colors are missing, but it is nice to pop in for example directly to work. The Four Thirds system has no way to soft focus lenses, so we especially welcome the addition of that option.
The lack of more creative tools is partially offset by the fact that you have several filters to choose from. Whoever takes snaps in black and white, so can choose among red and orange (for a 'hot' sky), green (for more contrast with leaves), etc.. We recommend it to first to try this in Live View, which is also ideal for adjustments in the hue, such as sepia, ice blue or violet. Anyone who now claims that Live View is a significant addition, is either very stubborn or of ill will, because it really is very handy at the screen to see exactly how a picture will look. That way, you are much faster to choose the correct settings.
Image
While we initially went into the fog a few times when we had to use flash, it is recorded that the new imaging system (TruepicIII +) is indeed a (slight) improvement over its predecessor. While we take pictures under an ISO value of 800, not moved too much and not too much zoomed in, we were always sharp images. Unfortunately showed the lack of stabilization in the body is sometimes felt, or so we were slightly blurry pictures. Usually, however, we had little trouble, so we are quite pleased with the performance of the E-450. The E-620 seems a better choice, but is more expensive, while the price-quality ratio of the E-450 really is very good.
Even in the "Natural' mode we got bright colors and also led the Shadow Adjustment Technology ensure that we were little affected by high contrasts. We recommend it to SAT only to be in situations where there is strong light and high-contrast, but in such cases the technology well. Not surprising, because in this field Olympus has already built a good reputation.
Moreover you can even noise filter set to 'Low', 'Standard' or 'High'. Very useful, because in an environment with natural light is a little grain in the picture quite charming. As usual we were at ISO values above 800 are significantly more noise, but as long as you do not artificially inflate the images, everything falls perfectly into. Those who like night shooting, the "Bulb' mode switching for exposure times of 30 minutes to get to. The shutter speed is adjustable up to 60 seconds.
After a while we were working, the flash appeared to be in order. Users can choose between 'Auto', 'Manual', 'Fill' and 'Slow Synchronization ", as you usually" Red Eye Reduction "can turn. The red eyes that we often saw in pictures that we took were almost always almost completely eliminated when liked that last option. All this can also wirelessly, we probably should not mention.
Assessment
If we take account of its light weight and the fairly extensive options, we must conclude that the E-450 a great value for money. In this price range there are little devices that better. It is true that the absence of (mainly) stabilization and half LCD sometimes a thorn in the eye. Moreover, you no video recording with the E-450 and that is something even a mobile phone of today is 50 euros. Anyone who has more money, so most opt for the E-620, while wealthy photographers may drool on the E-30 (discussed in our next article). Amateurs are not too deep into the pockets to attack, but will be very satisfied with the E-450, the purchase of an ordinary digital camera is almost insane.
HDR photography, a sensation
HDR photography, a sensation
Exposure
By highlighting a picture is about the way in contrast to control both the dark and light areas are fully subscribed. In the normal analog or digital photography, it is almost impossible to picture in a different light quantities well into view. Everyone knows the disappointing results when you put a picture of a situation that is both inside (with relatively low light) and outside (with relatively high light) plays. Either the part is slightly overexposed, or the dark part is neglected. The camera is simply not in a position equally wide range to include light as our eyes can. Another example is the backlight image, the dark side with flashlight should be clarified, and our eyes both shadow and brightly lit background in detail to observe good.
HDR
Stands for High Dynamic Range, just in Dutch: High Dynamic Range. With this technique it is possible to do nice detailed pictures of subjects by different amounts of light are illuminated. A technique which provide so much inferior to the human eye.
How does it work
For this technique you need a digital SLR. You set the camera to function mostly as bracketing is indicated. The camera shoots with this function at the same time more shots while on the image. Around 3 to 5 shots, but all with different shutter speeds and therefore different exposures. These different images, so that at the same time the same image created, then software to a merged picture. The results of the HDR technique is really wonderful to take. All details are, regardless of differences in exposure, now accurately see. It is even paying attention to the sometimes almost surreal beauty of the picture does not transcend reality.
What equipment is suitable
You need a digital SLR that features a body bracketing (AEB), which can make 3 or 5 shots. This setting is also called Bracket. Not every fabric also uses the name Bracketing for this function. Then you need a program, worth about € 100, -. A good program is widely used and the Photomatix HDR program.
Besides of course a good camera is also a good tripod is necessary. Using a remote control is highly recommended or else the self-timer (timer) of the camera.
Topics for HDR
Static topics are most suitable for this technique. The subject must minimize moving parts. Exceptions can sometimes be made for clouds and water. HDR used in eg the interior of a church can yield great results.
Exposure
By highlighting a picture is about the way in contrast to control both the dark and light areas are fully subscribed. In the normal analog or digital photography, it is almost impossible to picture in a different light quantities well into view. Everyone knows the disappointing results when you put a picture of a situation that is both inside (with relatively low light) and outside (with relatively high light) plays. Either the part is slightly overexposed, or the dark part is neglected. The camera is simply not in a position equally wide range to include light as our eyes can. Another example is the backlight image, the dark side with flashlight should be clarified, and our eyes both shadow and brightly lit background in detail to observe good.
HDR
Stands for High Dynamic Range, just in Dutch: High Dynamic Range. With this technique it is possible to do nice detailed pictures of subjects by different amounts of light are illuminated. A technique which provide so much inferior to the human eye.
How does it work
For this technique you need a digital SLR. You set the camera to function mostly as bracketing is indicated. The camera shoots with this function at the same time more shots while on the image. Around 3 to 5 shots, but all with different shutter speeds and therefore different exposures. These different images, so that at the same time the same image created, then software to a merged picture. The results of the HDR technique is really wonderful to take. All details are, regardless of differences in exposure, now accurately see. It is even paying attention to the sometimes almost surreal beauty of the picture does not transcend reality.
What equipment is suitable
You need a digital SLR that features a body bracketing (AEB), which can make 3 or 5 shots. This setting is also called Bracket. Not every fabric also uses the name Bracketing for this function. Then you need a program, worth about € 100, -. A good program is widely used and the Photomatix HDR program.
Besides of course a good camera is also a good tripod is necessary. Using a remote control is highly recommended or else the self-timer (timer) of the camera.
Topics for HDR
Static topics are most suitable for this technique. The subject must minimize moving parts. Exceptions can sometimes be made for clouds and water. HDR used in eg the interior of a church can yield great results.
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